TOTAL recall of Pan cams

To get videos longer than 12-seconds with a 5-minute cool down you have 2 options.

  1. You can install a microSD card and set that for motion or continuous recording.

or

  1. You can subscribe to CMC (Complete Motion Capture) which will still record to the cloud but will remove the limitations of the 12-second limit and 5-minute cool down.

https://services.wyze.com/detail/cmc

If you don’t like the product, return it for a refund…

d_steinberg - I tried but Wyze will not refund the 3 pan cam since I bought them from Amazon.

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I’ve done a bit of hobby level firmware development and it’s fully possible that it is indeed related to wifi settings. If the microcontroller in the camera starts on a task that takes longer than expected, such as waiting for a response from the wifi radio, it can get delayed in dealing with other things. If one of those things is stopping the motor which was previously set going in one direction, it might then end up overshooting on the tracking.

There are many people that purchased from Amazon in same situation.
I took a gamble and lost.Plain and simple.

Shouldn’t be a gamble, it is an advertised function. Unfortunately, for most people it does not work as advertised.

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I can’t believe I’m posting some help here after how upsetting the detection zone issue in iOS is, but here goes…

Motion Detection: works on percentage of pixels changed within the zone; the smaller the zone the smaller the number of pixels have to change to hit that percentage. Pixel change is just that, change. So you get ‘change’ from sun, clouds, dark of night, headlights, reflections, flaring, etc., and movement which is really only a variation in the color or shading of those pixels. Those are really important ideas when trying to setup and fine tune your cameras be they TPZ or fixed. Camera AI for “person” detection is the same thing with some (a lot) extra “IFTT” for shapes.

Motion Tracking: works — not too well. This is a Wyze issue, but it’s not exclusive to Wyze. Their tracking tries to “center” the motion in the field of view (FOV). You can see it a bit with the puppy on the stairs as there is a tad of jerk. A slow moving animal (cat on the couch) will produce a nice even video suitable for advertising. :wink: but try something with two humans — one at each edge of the FOV and you are in for a dizzying amount of back-and-forth “zippity dip dop”. :dizzy_face: This is something that current technology addresses in programming by reducing sensitivity. So there’s the trade-off. More sensitive = more jerking, less sensitive = smoother.

Network Disconnects: This is a sticky subject and can be caused by an incredible number of things from neighboring interference to crowded airwaves to hardware to ‘magic – FM or regular’. I fixed this in my setups by adding some smart plugs to the mix. Now that ups the cost and that stinks, but if you’re hundreds of miles away from your cams it’s worth every cent. There are several brands, including one from Wyze, I prefer the Levitons because I was using them before I became acquainted with Wyze. They add $35 to each plug-in, which is ouch! (But they do have good TS) Anyway, when the cam loses the network you can’t reboot it remotely. But with these I can remotely turn the plug off and on, which reboots the cams. It works.

Best wishes for the other stuff. You’re right, their support and communication needs improvement but right now they seem to be very distracted by (or attracted to) getting new and various devices to market, like the locks.

There will come a point at which they will either stop the ‘everything new needs all our attention’ and focus on making what they have excell in every way, or they will fold — or, and what entrepreneur does not have this idea floating about in their wheelhouse — be bought out.

— 7

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Just curious how you think the camera should handle 2 object moving on 2 different sides of the camera? If it senses motion, it needs to move in that direction to capture it. From my experience it does a fairly good job of following the motion, not exactly like the video in the ad, but I’m guessing it’s based on the environment. Mine is in a garage that isn’t well lit like the dog on the steps.
I do agree about network disconnects, but I get this from all of my cameras, and I have about 5 different brands. Still trying to figure that one out, but my Wyze cams do seem to be more reliable than the others. That is a good idea about the smart plugs, but $35 is a lot. I use Sonoff, they work great and are much cheaper.

And therein lies the rub. What to do? Two people on either side of the frame, talking with their hands — how does one program a camera to balance conflicting side changes and stay centered? Unless you widen the FOV, or choose one or the other, it’s not possible.

I agree, “fairly good”. Noisy as all get out, but fairly good. There’s no doubting a mechanical device is following your every move unless you’re deaf. I do think they could do a much better job by not concentrating so hard on trying to keep the center of the motion at the center of the FOV. Allowing motion to move about in the FOV would reduce the jerkiness quite a bit.

They only way to get great or perfect is to put a person behind the camera, i.e., a cameraman. I do think people kind of expect that level of smoothness, choice and function when they first start playing with this stuff but it’s very unrealistic. Just MO there, btw.

Thanks. I’ve also used WeMo from Belkin, but they’re not cheap either. I’m not familiar with Sonoff. My experiences with Leviton cover decades. It’s is a large long-established commercial player with excellent support during their hours, off-hours forget about it. The reason I use those is that they specifically support multiple geographically separated sites.

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The overshooting is caused by the light seemingly lighting up the blank wall… seriously overpowering the movement it started tracking. It lit up like the sun.

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Mine too. I’ve tried to set up pan zones, but they seem to forget them and pan willy-nilly or not at all. I have 3. Only one pans correctly. Maybe the features need a more detailed explanation. For example, if I’m watching Cam-1 on tablet-1,and while leaving tablet-1 on, view CAM-1 on my cell phone proceeding to make changes, will those changes be displayed immediately on Cam-1? Do I need to start/stop software? Unplug/restart Cam-1? Stop viewing Cam-1 on tablet-1 before making changes? IDK.

You (should) need to refresh the view on Tablet-1 by exiting the view then relaunching it.

You should not need to stop or restart the software, unplug or restart Cam-1, nor stop viewing Cam-1 on Tablet-1 before making said changes.

Oh, really? Then why isn’t it drawn to the far right where the “sun” is even brighter? Your explanation lacks credulity.

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I own nine V2 cameras and love them .I have a V2 outside undercover where it has worked flawlessly for 15 months. I did purchase a Pan Cam last summer from Amazon, tried it for 3 days, and returned it for a full refund.

It was too fiddly, required an almost constant resetting, and was generally a pain in the ass. Certainly not as easy and set-and-forget like the V2.

While the Pan Cam is a good idea, for me the execution is not up to the same standards of the V2.

If the model is reworked and trustworthy reviews can be found I might give it another try.

Check out the Gosund line. They work very well, cost around $6-8 depending, are very programmable and integrate with Alexa, IFTTT, etc.

I have 5 pans and have experienced most of the problems described in this thread. One cam was replaced under warranty. Most of the connectivity/need to reboot issues seem to have been fixed by moving to a much better Wifi (Eero mesh).
The best settings I’ve found so far for the Pans have been:

  1. Decide where I want my’ Return To’ zone to be for Detection Zone. Turn off Detection Zone. I’ve found it to be unreliable.
  2. Reset position on cam (Advanced Settings/Motor Controls/Reset Position)
  3. Manually position the cam to the above chosen ‘Return To’ view using the BASE of the cam, not the body, then tighten the cam to whatever mount you are using or just leave it sitting in place if not using a mount.
  4. Now set only one pan scan waypoint to the position you just manually set the cam to (your desired return-to zone). Only one.
  5. Turn on Pan Scan
  6. Turn on Motion Tracking and if desired Motion Tagging. Now you have a cam that will track and tag whatever enters the zone you want covered,even if it leaves that zone, and return to the home zone when the activity stops.
    As far as the jerky and conflicting tracking, I set my motor speed to one and I get pretty smooth flow. Don’t think there’s much an inexpensive cam can do about dueling banjos in opposite sides of its Field of View.
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I wonder since she is coming out a door and not from the edges of camera view. Maybe the camera is going all the way to the edges assuming that is where the motion should start.

Those are slick! Does Gosund have their own software? I didn’t see it on the web site. I really like the 2-in-1 plug, and the compact size of the round ones.

No, it doesn’t.

When the camera moves enough so the wall enters the FOV, the bright light of the wall changes a large portion of the pixels. The brightness of the sun outside the FOV has no effect on the detection. Changes only matter when they are within the FOV and are only mitigated or enhanced by the user settings for sensitivity. Flaring may originate outside the FOV, but it can effect pixels in the FOV and will be perceived as “motion” by the camera. The same thing happens if the camera pans to a place where it suddenly encounters brightness.

The device has no “intelligence”. It is strictly mechanical. Person Detection is the only real AI with these and that is soon to be absent for a time.

Remember, cameras do not detect “motion” the way we interpret it: as something “moving”. They detect motion mechanically as change to the pixels.

In reality our vision works similarly. We detect change to the exceptionally small rods and cones in our eyes. If that change progresses from one cell to the next to the next we interpret “motion”. The engineering behind visual motion detection & tracking is modeled on that.

Contrast this with how “motion detectors” or “occupancy sensors” for lights or security alarms normally work. They generally detect “change” in heat signatures. That’s not wholly dissimilar to fire detection devices. Each, UV, IR, etc., has its pros and cons. Putting them together in a hybridized way helps some, but still falls far short of the abilities of organic organisms.

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I absolutely agree with you! I had high hopes for wyze when they first hit the market but they have let me down at literally every opportunity. I’m done with wyze it’s time to throw out my wyze cams, motion sensors, and contact sensors (about $300 worth of hardware) and get a proper home monitoring system like ring. Wyze doesn’t seem to care that they have continued to fail their loyal customers and show little interest in fixing any of the issues the customers are having. I wouldn’t be surprised is 2 years from now people will say wyze only when referring to bad customer service, garbage company, or there products failing again and again. “My computer keeps freezing and when I call tech support they don’t answer” “what? Is a wyze computer or something?”

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