I’d say no later than early 2019
I hope it is the first one (I think=2019). Lol 
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I hope Wyze releases the outdoor cam soon!!
Wyze Guys: The timing on needing the outdoor camera is really now! Trick (or Treaters) coming soon, It’s getting colder and not wanting to fumble around in the cold temps (Midwest) is really important. I really don’t want to be on ladders in freezing drizzle or snow, is a strong safety consideration. I’d be happy to beta test some for you to avoid the problems with the weather coming up soon. If I were to hang lights on my house, I’d be doing it soon. Hanging the cameras at the same time would be a no brainer. Please push the release sooner than later.
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I’m so excited to hear this news!!! I’m currently using three v2 cams outdoors enclosed with a generic case from Amazon. The video quality is amazing during the day, but at night, the low-light sensitivity is awful. Even with night vision, I can’t see the end of my yard, which is just 15 feet away. I hope with an outdoor cam, the low light sensitivity will be better (like my Pixel 3 phone or a dashcam).
A WyzeCam, mounted on the garage in a similar enclosure, does a great job. It captures vehicles on the road, ~150’ downhill. Perhaps your Cam needs tweaking.
Do you have streetlights in front of your garage? My yard is pitch black, so I am thinking the IR leds are too weak in total darkness and/or low-light sensitivity is too low.
The house is on a hill in a rural area. A few driveway markers have reflective tape. The tape is visible. It “sees” vehicles going by on the road.
Wish I could be more helpful.
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Hi @jchang You will find some great information on separate illuminators which helps tremendously to brighten up your videos at night in this thread below: 
The test of real quality is how good a still you can pull from the footage. Although video will be taken away, any attempt to identify an unknown person will usually be done from a still circulated to media or other police. That’s often the difference between a digital pro cctv camera and an old style analogue / cheap digital one.
So far as night is concerned, you shouldn’t need IR with a good sensor as the best sensors now are sensitive enough to use colour at night. Studies have shown identification is much more likely from a colour image than B&W. That said, colour use does depend on your ambient light level and the quality whether or not you have supplementary lighting (bulkheads, decorative, floods), and to an extent the colour temperature of these, although some softwares do allow settings for colour temp adjustment at night. IR doesn’t hurt and in total darkness, is the only solution. However, you’re better off with forced colour at night if the sensor is good enough to support it.
If unsure what is colour temp, colour (of light) can range from warm to cold, which is usually but not necessarily depending on the extremes, orange / yellow, through daylight to blue.
Daylight to slightly cold usually works best with camera sensors in my experience. Opinions vary on the exact colour temp for daylight but usually the best camera range seems to be in the 5,000-6,500K range which encompasses daylight to cold. Daylight is often stated roughly between these values. Personally, I would more or less agree with the above chart and say it’s around 5,500K but we could argue all year on this one.
BTW, the chart above is inaccurate in one respect. Much above 7,000K, light becomes increasingly purple not blue, and at the lower end towards red. Google colour temp and you’ll find a whole range of interpretations.
To this extent the CRI or colour rendering index of a bulb is also important, although manufacturers rarely state these. Basically, the higher the better CRI and you want a value over 80.
When it comes to choosing lights, with floods, led bulbs are usually built in so it means specc’ing the whole light. With bulkheads / decorative, personally I prefer a conventional light into which I put a daylight bulb. The light lasts forever, as you simply change bulbs, and you have more choice / control over what you fit.
Sorry if that goes slightly off topic with lighting, but it’s relevant to the night debate.
That’s great information. But, surely we must keep in mind that this is a $20 camera. I doubt that expecting very low light sensitivity at this price point is realistic today. But, maybe in a few more years. Technology marches on.
Yes although we don’t know the price point. The Wyze Cam 2 indoor is a $20 cam. However, I’d expect the outdoor version to be more expensive because of the waterproof casing. Whether Wyze choose to also up the quality of sensor as well, is an unknown. It’s all going to come down to where they view their price point to be. The competition, Ring, Arla etc are often well over $100 and with some cams in the $200-300 price bracket. Considering some dash cameras and pro level CCTV cameras cost less than those, it’s feasible for Wyze for build a good camera at a lower price point than Ring etc. The big question is where the price point is, $30, £50, $75, $100, $150, $200? All up in the air at the moment as the developers aren’t really letting anything slip. I’d expect the lower end from Wyze, but equally, I’d be willing to pay more for a pro quality camera that undercuts the pro cctv at a similar quality point.
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Reading and comparing all of this and more! Currently using Alcidea Garager 2. Love it! Alcidea makes 2 other cams, both indoor use. I don’t mind running POE and having the direct connect as an option would be great. I was lured into the wireless component, as i am sure many others have been as well. For reliability, direct connect is always better IMHO. However, if your Internet connection goes down, Xfinity for example, periodically goes down, the battery is nice to have, even though you can not get real time viewing. The price point for Wyze is it’s best marketing tool. I can not use a doorbell cam due to having accordion hurricane shutters on my front door which would block the viewing lens. Mounting a pa/tilt cam is my best option. Mounting on wall under eaves works for me. Running cable through attic is no problem either. If the new outdoor cam has better features, like POE input, that would alleviate the USB to POE adapter awkwardness. Video quality is priority. Hopefully, the product will appear soon!
I have both POE cameras and USB Wyze cameras. POE, especially for an outdoor cam application, is easier to run, never drops out, and is completely stable. POE is just a more professional, set and forget, set up.
USB /wifi is way more of a pain to set up. problems with wiring outlets, problems with wifi drop out,… I love the Wyze cam, but I would love it wayyyyyy more ( and pay more for it), if the outdoor cam had a POE version.
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Solar is the only way to go with any outdoor wireless cam. My biggest problem lately has been dropouts from my ISP. I see some have mentioned poe. That requires the stringing of lots of wires and there’s already systems that would fill anyone’s needs. The video quality of WYZE is what’s keeping me with WYZE even though there’s dropouts which then don’t provide me with motion segments. I just skipped through 3 hours of recorded time just to find what was going on.
You just proved my point. there are never any “dropouts” with my POE cameras. Yet everyday there are dropouts with Wifi and Wyze. And it’s a myth about “requires the stringing of lots of wires” it’s one wire, just like Wyze uses, except with POE it is for DATA and power.
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Solar is fine if I want to put “a” camera at the back of my yard or something similar.
If I want to drop one camera under the eaves on each side of my house it just seems silly to me. I’ve now vastly increased both the cost (got to have a solar panel and a battery on each camera) and the physical footprint on my house, Now to mention that I’m not getting any sun to power anything on the north facing side of my eaves.
Dropping POE ethernet cables inside my attic to my eaves on the other hand is a piece of cake, it makes the camera cheaper rather than more expensive, and I’ve got a 99.9999% available datalink.
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I’m convinced that those with dropouts don’t have Wyze cam problems, they have ISP, router, RFI, or networking problems. I have never had a single dropout on my Wyze cams except when the power dips.
Most likely they have spotty wifi where the camera is deployed.
That’s the problem with wifi - you’ll invariably have dead spots if you walk around your home.