Albert, that is exactly what I need. Now all we need is a way to weatherproof it for outdoor use. I could use that tape he describes earlier in this thread.
Thanks again! The 3 packs are very reasonable!
May want to try another 18650 battery?
Bookmarked this thread. I have a plan to deploy a couple Wyze cameras outside in one of our trucks. I will be using 1-2 deep cycle wheelchair batteries as a power source. I’m hoping to get several days of use before having to recharge them.
Be aware that the holder only fit flat tops not button top 18650 batteries. So the listing you mention will not work.
In was going to order some of these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B9LF2P2/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?smid=A3IAN4VN1Q26HU&psc=1
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Thanks for pointing out that this holder uses the flat top 18650 batteries!
The Amazon page should have better battery information listed!
This is what I use
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SFKYDNM/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_UHFdEb48VBV33
Last around 14 hrs unplugged. It stays plugged in all the time. In case of power outage, keeps recording.
There are many other similar products there.
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I’m new, but will the cam still record without an internet connection? Cause when I lose power here (have nice generator), I almost certainly lose my internet as well.
It will keep recording to the SD card as long as internet was active when the camera turned on initially. If the camera loses power at the same time the internet loses power, and you don’t regain internet, I think it won’t record.
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AlbertJmulder,
Did those new 18650 flat top batteries fix the problem?
I wish the device worked with button tops because I have lots of those now.
Thanks!
Did the camera reboot? I am using a iMuto 30000mAH battery backup and it seems like the battery is causing the camera not to come on after rebooting. I want to use a system so that my house that is near beach looses power we can still monitor it when the power returns. The camera keeps going offline after about a day or two connected to the battery pack.
No the battery still does not charge or turn the camera back on after its co.pletely drained. I might buy one of the battery packs mention above and see how that works for me. Give my power is never down for more than 1 hour. Buy just incase I want something that comes back up
I am testing the system @albertjmulder linked to. I have miliamp meters connected to both input and output sides. It looks like it pulls 520 miliamps on the input side while delivering 420 miliamps to the wyzecam, which means a charge rate of 100 miliamps when the cam is powered up. In this scenario it would take ~20 hours to fully charge a depleted 2000mah battery.
When the output side is connected to a 750 miliamp load it doesn’t seem to ever draw more than 600 miliamps on the input side, which means the battery would eventually drain completely even while plugged in this scenario.
Button too batteries did work for me.
I am running more test. Will update when done.
Video below shows the meters. White meter is measuring input side. The other meter in on the output side showing the cam’s power draw. Battery was down about 200-300 mah when I began the current test. I am waiting to confirm that power draw on input side declines at some point, indicating battery has finished recharging…
Marc
Thanks for helping out on this project! Hopefully a board can be selected that does exactly what we want without having to do any soldering (my fingers are not built for soldering)!
Mine either. I’ve taped them, glued them, cemented them, tied them but it really hurts when I try to solder them.
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A quick update. My conclusion is that the board is simply not able to both charge the battery & power a load like a Wyzecam at the same time.
Whenever everything is connected, the Wyzecam will function and the battery charge level will not drop.
If you unplug the board from the power suppy, the wyzecam will continue to operate and the battery level will begin to go down, as expected.
When you plug it back in, the wyzecam will continue to operate as expected, but the battery level will not go up. It pretty much stays where it was.
I just found 2 old 3000 mah “power banks” that seem to operate as UPS’s. They were “give aways” at an event I went to. I’ve found them online, but they cost $24 each and have to be ordered in a minimum lot of 50 because they are intended to be “give aways” with company logos on them…
This device for $30 on Amazon claims to do what we want it to do, but I can’t speak to how well it works in practice.
I now have 3 18650 batteries that I don’t need…guess it’s time to buy some flashlights 
…
Marc
Send them to be and I’ll use them in my vape mod… ;p
marcaronson408:
I have a Talentcell that is linked above that is still for sale on Amazon, but not the exact link anymore.
It works just like a UPS, but like I said, it is much bigger than the solution we are looking for.
The codes on the box are:
X000RBMDQ7
Talentcell rechargeable 12/5V Battery with charger Black New
I think this is it for $32, but the exact one I bought seems to not be there anymore using the old link.
Anyone thought of just soldering in a nice big capacitor?.. or two…
So I have been trying now for a few months to try and find a good solution that works as a real UPS does, Not a powerpack that gets power from batteries while charging them at the same time. Or many of the advertised devices that drain from the battery while charging.
I have given up and have now decided to learn some electronics and make my own using 2 18650 batteries. I have a bunch of parts ordered and should hopefully get them mid next month. If all goes well and I can make a true UPS for usb devices, my plan is to find a manufacturer and get some samples made on a more professional level. (my soldering skills suck) Then if all that goes well, there might be a new item on amazon. 
Thanks for all your efforts on this albertjmulder!
I know about soldering, it is not one of my “gifts” either.
Being able to put a small device like this close to the camera would help with long cable runs too.
Those extended USB cables some people use can cause the Wyze sensor bridge to be flaky.
The 18650 battery is the way to go, I just hope it does not have to turn into a 2 battery solution, unless someone can figure out a way to put them end to end (not just side by side). With all these people using arduino boards, someone has to have a solution out there (you would think).