I’m not sure, all I have to go on are the readings from the USB tester, that’s why it’s a non-scientific test
Out of curiosity, are disconnects still a problem for those of you who set up the USB power workarounds? It’s been a while and I’m curious to see how you’ve made out since you implemented your workarounds.
The workaround solution has been stable for me. In fact, it worked so well to stop disconnects on my Cam Pan that I did the same thing (using a USB splitter and 2nd USB power adapter to provide independent power to the sensor bridge) on my Cam v2 in another part of the house. Two weeks now and no more disconnects from that one, which had been completely unreliable previously.
So sorry for ignoring this post for so long. I had turned off notifications a while back. I solved this simply by using a 3-amp usb power supply instead of the stock 1 amp power supply. Haven’t had a problem since.
Was testing my new v3 cam on the side of the house to see if it gave a better picture at night. The PanCam is on a 15 foot USB extension cable. It worked fine, but when I plugged the V3 into the USB port on the back of the PanCam it wouldn’t connect correctly to the network. Started to but failed everytime. Assumed it was a voltage drop, so removed the PanCam and plugged the v3 directly into the USB extension cable. The v3 then booted and connected correctly. Of course the video on the v3 is night and day better. But this thread has confirmed that the CamPan drops the voltage, especially with the USB extension cable.
As for the Wyze Sense, I’ve had mine plugged into v2 cams and about every three months all sensors drop on a bridge and have to cycle the power on the camera to get everything back. Going to see if the USB splitter that Wayt recommended work, because the cameras are at the far end of the house next to a wall. The cable may do the trick. Thanks
Just checked the usb power supply on each bridge v2 Cam. The bridges that failed the most often are my original cameras with the stock 1 amp power supply. The bridge that has only failed once in three years is on a third party 2 amp usb power supply with a short cord.
So, I will change the power supplies and get a usb splitter which moves it off of the back of the v2 cam. That should fix it for sure.
I substituted a 3amp Power Supply to the V2 that has the bridge.
Didn’t have any luck with a "Splitter.
What I did do was put a 7 Inch extension USB Cable between the camera usb port and the bridge.
That worked. I always suspected a heat build up in the camera might affect the bridge.