Wyze thermostat connection issues

I followed the app guidance and ended up with a system that blew cold air during the heating test and lukewarm air during the cooling test.

Here are the pre-pics:

Will post other image in reply.
There is a jumper from Rc to R.

Used the C adapter. Connected as per app instructions;
White to W1, Yellow to Y1, Blue to B/O, red to Rc and Green to C.

Any help is appreciated.

what did your wyze hookup look like?
Also, you don’t need the C adapter, your thermostat has a C wire in it.
use the wire labels that are under the wires in that picture not the ones on the bottom of the thermostat. It looks like you have a gas furnace and an air conditioner, not a heat pump

I made my best sketch showing where the wires are connected. This is exactly how the app recommended to do it.

The adapter is only needed if you do not have a common wire at your thermostat. it is installed inside your furnace/air handler, not at the thermostat.

You do not appear to have a heat pump.
Assuming you do not in fact have a heat pump, your wiring should be as follows:
Leave the furnace side as it is in those photos.

At the wyze thermostat:
red wire to Rc
blue wire to C
green wire G
white wire to W1
yellow wire to Y1

Thanks!

Now I have a new problem. Of course.
It powered off during firmware update and now will not turn back on.

Tried cutting powr, etc…nothing. It just stays black…
This is pretty frustrating compared to other wyze products.

How long did it take to do the firmware update? Mine took about 5 minutes, during which time I ignored it completely. If you cut the power to it while it was trying to update the firmware, it might be stuck in a boot loop.

You might be able to fix it by holding down the thermostat button for 15 seconds and forcing a reset.

You will need to delete and re-add it if you do this.

I had let it sit for 45 minutes before giving up and cutting power.

Is there a way to check with a multimeter that it’s getting power - although it is warm to touch, so fairly sure it’s getting power.

I also did try the “hold for 15 sec” but no change.

Maybe just a lemon?

With your multimeter in volts AC and they wyze removed from its socket, check between Rc and C for between 24 and 30 volts. If there’s no voltage there, it’s possible something blew the 5 amp automotive style fuse on your controller board - usually this is caused by misaligning the pins when plugging a thermostat in and accidentally shorting something, but it can also be caused by a loose wire touching something it shouldn’t.

28V. All good there.

You’re going to have to contact support then, I don’t know what the issue is.

I appreciate your help!
When I called support they gave me some nonsense about 8% packet loss (when I tested it, I got 0%)…so getting a bit annoyed.