Wyze Sense deadbolt locked sensor

here is a new bracket I have made to use a Wyze sense as a deadbolt sensor

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Nice idea and build!

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Do you have plans to sell the deadbolt bracket?

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There is a link in the video Description to the Etsy shop.

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That’s awesome, great idea!

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Very cool. I did something similar a few months ago, but yours is definitely more elegant. :slight_smile:

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Thanks, Funny thing is that was probably about the time that I got my first prototype installed. Reminds me how in history the Jet Engine was being invented and developed in different countries at the same time without any collaboration or knowledge. It was just the next logical step. You know what they say about great minds :wink:

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This is a great design. Installation took about 10min. No connection issues even though contact is hidden out of sight. I give it 5 stars!

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Hello lachlan6

I just came upon your “Wyze Sense deadbolt locked sensor” post. In this post you show a 3D printed insert to receive the bolt that pushes a magnet that affects the reed-switch in the sending unit. All of this contained within the 3D printout. You have a clean looking solution for those who do not mind drilling out additional structural capacity of their door frame or having to do a partial disassembly of the latch plate to get access to the sending unit for a battery change or to have their Wyze App running to see if the reed-switch state was changed.

In the post “My Wyze Smart-ish Lock Another Approach” I modify the sending unit by placing the magnetic reed-switch external on a short lead which is inserted into a 3/16” Ø and the rest of the sending unit command-taped to the wall externally. The reed-switch was actuated by a disc magnet glued to the of the deadbolt. Eventually the disc magnet fell off and I was going to glue it on with a different adhesive, But I found out the residual magnetic transferred to the bolt was enough to trigger the reed-switch. So, my smart-ish lock is still working.

The purpose of this reply is to ask you if you can see a simpler way to print a sending unit enclosure that does what my epoxy extended sending unit case dose. The printed outer case would need to hold the modified case by accommodating the switch extension wires while holding them snuggly, allow the state-change red LED to be observed, provide sufficient mounting surface and allow easy removal/replacement of the battery access plate.

Not many people would want to do surgery on a sending unit to externalize the reed-switch.
Needless to say, building a small form to extend the case with epoxy is a pain.

I give you all rights to use and sell whatever you come up with and buy several from you. Checkout:
My Wyze Smart-ish Lock Another Approach.
Till later, Victor Maletic

Hi Victor,

I am not sure I am understanding your vision. I see your post about your solution but I don’t understand what you would want printed. I will think about it but right now I don’t quite understand.

Hi lachlan6
The pictures below show how I extended the sending unit case to provide support for the wires for the external reed-switch extension. This extended case also has a drop-down deck so the opening slot can be engaged to open the battery cover. A two-part plastic enclosure: The base and the drop-down deck.
The base would enclose and extend the sending unit and provide a guide slot for the reed wires.
The drop-down deck would snap down over the end of the base, cover the wire guide, and provide access to the opening slot for the battery door. Maybe the attached pictures will be helpful.





This last picture is what the sending unit looks like with the external reed-switch. The magnet was for testing only and not to be included in the 3D print. The picture above is what the 3D printed enclosure would be equivalent to.

Later I will send you a sketch of my idea for it. Let me know if you have further questions.
Victor Maletic

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Hello lachlan6

We had corresponded earlier about 3D printing some enclosures for contact sensors with their reed switches relocated externally. I took a contact sensor unit, removed the mastic adhesive and measured the relevant dimensions with a pair of calipers to come up with the enclosure geometry. There should be sufficient clearance between the sending unit and the enclosure to allow a free fit with no drag or binding. The dimensions given in the attached drawing are to be modified based on your knowledge of 3D printing and the capabilities of your printer. I would like three of these units. Let me know much you need to set up your print files and to actually print. Earlier I thought an enclosure would consist of two parts, this single part version will be easier to print. If you need the actual PDF or cad file (Civil 3D 2018), I could email it to you.


The picture below is what the 3D print geometry depicted above will replace on future installations.

Till later Victor Maletic.

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Thanks for this. I know you’re selling these on Etsy. I have my own 3D printer, but I’m wondering about your magnet source? I’m not going into competition, I just want to test this out on my own as a one-off. Can you share your magnet source?

yeah sure no problem, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0719W6612/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also the newest STL is for sale on Etsy: https://www.etsy.com/listing/872406131/stl-of-deadbolt-bracket-for-wyze-sense?ref=shop_home_active_12

My plan is to sell my newest designs on Etsy and any older ones I will share for free on Thingiverse

Hello lachlan6
This past July 21, I sent you an engineering drawing of an enclosure for a modified contact sensor (external reed switch) along with a photo of how it would generally look.

The drawing has detailed cross-sections with dimensions. I sent this information to you because, an earlier description I sent you was not sufficient for you to visualize what I had in mind. Post 12/14 is the detailed drawing and photo.

I do not have a 3D printer, nor do I want to invest the time to learn to write the 3D code for it at this period in my life.

I would like to buy three prints of the drawing in post 12/14 at $20 each. And you are welcome to use the design and sell to any buyer that may want one.

Heck, maybe I will extend my business by offering to modify contact sensor sender units with external
reed switches.

Hope to hear from you, Victor Maletic.

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Thanks and much appreciated. I managed to pop the STL (of the old version) into a modeler and measure the hole in the interim. :wink:

I’m actually eager to see if this can be modified to eliminate the need to drill out the deadbolt receiving hole on the door jamb anymore than it already is. In some circumstances, such as mine, the door is an “outswing” and I rather not reduce any structural integrity of the door jamb further.

I guess and alternative would be to attempt @victormaletic’s design, which has crossed my mind to install a small reed switch rather than the hole thing. This would help with preserving the structural integrity of the jamb. I was just wanting to avoid having to break out the soldering iron.

Hello holocron and those that may be looking at this thread.
I agree, smaller mounting holes result in less structural loss and easier installation. The external reed switch approach has these additional advantages:
The sending unit’s operational LED can be observed directly.
Battery changes are through direct access-no partial disassembly with tools are required.
Below are some links that delve into the details:
My Wyze Smart-ish Lock Another Approach This link gives the general approach for an external reed switch installation.

Contact Sensor Modified - Magnetic Reed Switch Remote / Outside This link goes into details of the actual reed switch modification.

Hiding the Contact Sensor No Chiseling No Sawing This link shows how a contact sensor sending unit can be recessed into a door or its frame by drilling a sequence of small holes.

As I write this post another thought occurs to me of using an auxiliary device that uses an unmodified contact sending unit. The auxiliary device would consist of two small wire coils connected to each other via a pair of wire leads. One coil of the device would be placed in a small hole in the wall near the end of magnetic bolt and the other coil will be on the wall’s exterior surface in contact with the sending unit.
Movement of the dead bolt would induce a current in the nearby coil, which would create a magnetic field in the other coil that triggers the reed switch.
Experiment time.
Victor Maletic.

Sorry, I don’t quite understand the purpose of the device you are describing. It looks to just hold the wires so that they don’t pull on the solder point. If that is the case I feel like there are easier solutions. One being to just make sure the hole that is drilled is very precise and to tie a knot in the wire on the inside. maybe add a dab of hot glue.

I do like your implementation for anyone that is comfortable with soldering. But I don’t know how many people would be comfortable with it. My time is pretty limited right now. (work, family, Etsy, new designs, you tube videos…)

Hello lachlan6 and Other that may look at this post.

Thank you for your response lachlan6.

In posts 10/18, 11/18, 12/18 and 15/18 in reply to your post of 9/18, I am trying to describe the device I would like printed. It’s basically an open-faced holder for the contact sensor sending unit with an elongated side to support and secure the reed wire. The elongated side also has a depression to facilitate opening the battery lid.

The contact sending unit holder is more sophisticated than it may at first appear. Yes, it is a holder for the sending unit, that can be screwed or taped to its support surface. The extension of the of the holder to one side of the sending unit not only provides support and anchorage of the external reed leads, it also isolates the solder joints from stress (tension or bending). This extension of the holder also provides a larger mounting surface area, while providing a reaction-block for prying open the battery lid (see pictures).


The picture above shows a small common nail being used as a prybar against the reaction-block to open the battery lid.

The picture above shows the result of the prying action. Be ready to catch the lid.

The increased mounting footprint provides 73% more adhesive area with a corresponding reduction of required adhesive force. The geometry of the reaction-block in relation to the contact sending unit provides 57% more resisting moment to counteract the torque needed to open the battery lid, hence less force on the adhesive. The idea of a knot with glue will restrain the wire, but it will not provide the other advantages described above.

Yes, my modification requires some abilities that are well within the skill-set of many forum participants or their neighbors, but it only requires a small 3/16” Ø in the outer part of the door frame while providing for easy battery change and direct observation of its change of state.

I reached out to you because you already knew the sizing needed to get a proper holder fit and that this geometric extension of one side of it would not be much of a challenge for you to work up the print file.

Again, thanks for replying.

Victor Maletic.

I really like @lachlan6’s overall approach and design that “hides” the sensor in the door jamb. But, I wanted to find a solution that did not require modification to the door jamb OR which required putting parts in difficult to access locations.

So I’d thought about an approach that is easy to install using mostly stock equipment. I have two versions that I’m about to test. These are “remixes” of another item I found. The concept here is that you attach this “Wyze Thumbturn Handle” over the existing deadbolt thumbturn. You then locate the contact sensor on the door. The version below will use a 1/2" ceramic magnet. I have another version that would actually use the magnetic part of the contact sensor. The 1/2" ceramic option results in a smaller add-on. I’m about to print one.

Granted, this approach is more visible, but would be very simple to install.

The only non-stock parts you would need are the magnet and a coupe #10 bolts and nuts to make the compression attachment. More TBD:

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