Can anyone tell me what the center to center dimensions are for the mounting holes on the doorbell baseplate?
Select Shop above and select the doorbell of interest current one or pro then select FAQ, then select SPECS, Details
Screenshot from current version (Not the New Pro Version)
Click Image to enlarge, then click to zoom again (If on smartphone or tablet use fingers to zoom)
I was looking for the actual center to center mounting hole dimensions for the base plate, not the size of the doorbell, but thank you. So what is this about a “Pro” version of the doorbell? My problem is that I bought the doorbell back in the beginning of the year when they came out. Installed, worked fine and was please, BUT it has shown “Offline” for the last 6 months. I have property in Arizona where the doorbell is for security reasons, (snow bird in Az), and live permanently in Michigan, so I can’t mess with it when not there. Can’t be a wifi connection issue or shouldn’t be, because just above it on outdoor ceiling I have a Blink camera, and various locations in back of house also, and they are ALWAYS online. May just buy a Ring doorbell and be done with it. I have 3 Wyze cams here in Michigan for security, and even lately while here, I am starting to have to unplug and plug back in, these cameras because some of them will quit working , and show off line. These were bought about 2 years ago.
Yes from my reviews I chose not to buy the Wyze video doorbell for that reason and many others, as many problems are posted on this forum.
My only recommended cams are V2, V3, and Pan-Cams. The video doorbell and WCO are on my do not buy it’s JUNK list…LOL
Get another brand video doorbell in my opinion
Yea, I have 1 pan & tilt cam, and the other 2 here in MI are the regular camera. I am not sure what version, and they have done their updates but still go offline regularly. Wish they would let me trade these in for newer version, but that’s not gonna happen. I was wanting those hole dimensions becuase I will probably go with the Ring, and have a 3d printer and have the ability to print a mounting wedge of 20-30 degrees, and was going to make the mounting holes for the printed wedge baseplate , the same as the Wyze, so I don’t have to drill more holes in Az in stucco.
Add a WiFi controlled power plug to be able to cycle power over internet.
I do not recommend the Wyze branded ones however. There are many others out there, see other posts in this forum about that.
Check out Amazon for WiFi controlled power plugs.
Connect the Wyze USB adapter to that then when it goes offline you can remotely cycle power to restore it
I had thought about that. Wyze plugs no good? Got a box of them. Don’t want no fire though.seeing those pictures of the Wyze adapter fires.
Exactly, I use non-Wyze power sources and non-Wyze remote power controllers.
I figure the 5 volts at less than 1 Amp to camera is far less of a fire risk being a maximum of 5 watts of energy or 17 BTUs
Got a V3 almost close to 1 Amp but that took having live stream going on V3 with V3 spotlight On and Siren going…
Be fairly tough for 17 BTUs ( 5 watts to cause a fire )
But a very very slim possibility it could…
So what brands do you use for the outlet plug, and what do you use at the end of your usb cable from camera?
Well my systems are a bit extreme and not for the average hobbyist / user so first I will suggest these posts. and below that I will show what I use…
As far as USB wall adapters I do not know which are best as I do not use them in my setups, you may want to review high-quality USB adapters on the internet.
These posts are very informative as to power cycling power devices: (Note the blue lettering are links to those posts, Click the Blue Lettering links to go to them)
And there are plenty more remote powering solutions in this forum which you could use the “Magnifying Glass” Icon top of page to perform the searches…
Now I will give the info to my much more complex powering setups which most hobbyists / users likely won’t want to build.
Battery Backed-Up 14 V3 cams and Internet Communications <— Main Powering source replaces USB adapters for most of system except remote Solar powered cameras
This what I use but it is “Way Over The Top” for your needs of power cycling
IP-P4 Professional 4-Port Remote Power Switch - Phone Control + Web Control
And I have also heavily modified mine to run on 12 volts as my system is 12 volt based for cams and internet.
Modified for 12 volt DC control IP-P4 picture below:
It allows me to control 3 banks of multiple cameras per bank and also be able to reset internet if down through landline telephone.
Solar panel AND battery for Wyze Cam 3
Note the solar setup has a WiFi interface not shown in picture that also allows me to cycle the load connected to solar controller. I pulled it out of picture as to not show it for less complexity in that post, you can see the wires hanging out of enclosure that connects to those devices.
Note my powering and control systems used to run older security cameras of lower resolution that were later replaced with Wyze Cams V2, Pan-Cam, and later V3’s when they came out.
The Powering and control systems have more $$$$ invested in them than the Wyze Cameras do