I recently installed my Wyze Cam Floodlight, so I thought I would provide a bit of feedback. First, neither of the three screw sizes seemed to fit my electrical box. So to attach the mounting bracket, I needed to reuse the screws from the old fixture. I live in Canada, so perhaps my house has metric screws? Second, my exterior light is wired to a switch. It would be nice if a small, white, sticker were included that could be placed on a decora-style switch, so that it would stay in the on position, and not be accidentally turned off. It was really nice to have the included S-hook. It made installation a breeze.
Included with the floodlight should have been a small sticker that says “Do Not Turn Off”. Did yours not include that? and yes that hook was super handy
Nope. I did not get that sticker. Not that I noticed anyway.
I have a different issue with my new Wyze Cam Floodlight. No matter how impossible it sounds, it is interfering with my Liftmaster Garage Door opener. The day I installed the floodlight (over the center of the garage door facing the road) was the day my remote touchpad quick working and the remote in my car stopped working. I ended up buying a new touchpad and was surprised to find it only worked when I temporarily held it directly under the garage opener receiver. The same with my car remote even with a new battery. I had to be within a couple of feet for it to work. When I turned off the Cam Floodlight, both remotes worked as normal. Six different times I turned on and off the Floodlight with the same results. The Garage Door Opener operates on 390 mHz. As far as I can tell from the Floodlight specs it operates on 2.4 gHz (wifi frequency). However, it must be emitting noise or something. Has anyone experienced this phenomenon?
That’s pretty crazy. My floodlight is at the side of the house – probably 20’ from my garage door opener. So I wouldn’t expect this issue.
One fix for your problem might be to get the Wyze Garage Door Opener?
You can buy a light switch blocker like this: https://www.amazon.com/Toggle-Switch-Protects-Circuits-Accidentally/dp/B07JZWYNDM/ref=sr_1_6?crid=3FSEPI3FZTHKT&keywords=light+switch+blocker+for+toggle+switch&qid=1651428015&sprefix=light+switch+block%2Caps%2C259&sr=8-6
or this one: https://www.amazon.com/Switch-protects-lights-circuits-accidentally/dp/B07912JY7Y/ref=sr_1_21?crid=3FSEPI3FZTHKT&keywords=light+switch+blocker+for+toggle+switch&qid=1651428768&sprefix=light+switch+block%2Caps%2C259&sr=8-21
or you can do like I did, be cheap and make your own. I cut a thin but hard plastic to the length of my light plate, Cut out hole where the light switch could not move and made two holes for the screws and then screw my makeshift blocker to the light plate. It works like a dream. See enclosed picture.
Thanks for your reply, The distance from my garage opener receiver to the floodlight is only about 7 feet. Unfortunately, I don’t have another good location. I wouldn’t mind the Wyze Door Opener, but my wife does not own or want a smart phone. A simple press of a button in the car is all she wants.
Thanks @TEAllen23. That is a great idea. I have the Decora (aka rocker) style switch, but there are similar products for that style of switch too.
This is just a guess, but maybe you can try an inexpensive DIY solution by placing some aluminum foil insider your garage, behind the camera and in-between it and the door opener, to see if it will act as an RF shield? Depending upon where your wifi router is, this may also block the signal from your camera to that router.
Well, That’s exactly what I did yesterday as an experiment. I used several feet of foil, taped, overlapped, and extended out a couple of feet in all directions directly behind the floodlight on the inside of the garage. The result was disappointing. I did get the remote keypad to work once after several attempts. My car remote didn’t work sitting just outside the garage door. The floodlight signal to the router didn’t seem to be affected at all.
I think these are what you similar to what you are searching for: https://www.amazon.com/Rocker-Switch-Protects-Circuits-Accidentally/dp/B07K1CLJV8/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3S44ABP79AIHP&keywords=rocker+style+switch+guard&qid=1651513687&sprefix=Decora+(aka+rocker)+style+switch%2Caps%2C107&sr=8-2
For one with the dimmer: https://www.amazon.com/Option-Switch-Guards-Clear-Rocker/dp/B00DUBOSTA/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3S44ABP79AIHP&keywords=rocker%2Bstyle%2Bswitch%2Bguard&qid=1651513750&sprefix=Decora%2B(aka%2Brocker)%2Bstyle%2Bswitch%2Caps%2C107&sr=8-2&th=1
I ended up purchasing the second ones. I.e. the ones that also work with a dimmer. I like that I can still use a pencil to flick the switch if I need to “hard reboot” the WYZE floodlight. They should be delivered later this afternoon. Thanks!
I’m having the same problem. First it was with a pair of Feit recessed LED light fixtures and now with the Wyze camera and light combination.
Apparently a lot of LED light power sources can affect garage door openers. Read How LED Lights Cause Interference With Your Garage Door Opener
I’m having the exact same problem. We also have narrowed it down to the floodlight. The openers work fine on both doors once the main power switch to the floodlight is turned off. I tried every setting/combo within the floodlight app, turning motion and camera on and off, changing motion sensor distance etc. I even changed the remote batteries. The remote only works inside the garage, or within a very, very close distance to the door outside, but not always.
By any chance did you put new fluorescent or LED bulbs in the garage door opener itself?
I’ve got a pair of 21 year old Craftsman / Chamberlain openers in my garage. Over the years I “upgraded” from incandescent to fluorescent and then LED bulbs in the openers. The usable range with my handheld remotes (the single pushbutton I kept clipped to the windshield visor) dropped lower and lower year by year. I was at the point about 3 years ago where I was thinking of buying new openers, thinking these had finally expired. I never made the connection until I read some discussions about the RF interference modern LEDs could generate. So…I ran out and bought some LED bulbs specifically designed for garage door openers – they’re RF shielded, and you can get some branded by Liftmaster, Chamberlain and others. Amazingly - I put these in, and the openers started functioning again like new – the same openers and remotes work now from about 30 or 40 feet away - before I drive up my driveway from the street – all because I eliminated the interference.
Rick4, thanks for the article. I have experienced RF noise and interference in other devices from LED bulbs. Why I didn’t draw any initial connection to my remotes failing to work is there were no LED lights on in my garage at the time I used the remotes. Even though I have LED bulbs in my garage door opener, they don’t turn on until after the receiver picks up and decodes the signal from a remote. My theory is invalid if LED bulbs can still emit interference without being turned on. BTW, I contacted WYZE customer service a couple of days ago but have not yet received a reply.
Yes, Lisag69, you are getting the same results I am. During my research, I have found that some garage door opener receivers are extremely susceptible to what’s called “front end overload”. Any strong signal in its immediate vicinity can virtually swamp the receiver lending it useless to receive its intended signal. In our case, the “offending” strong signal may be the wifi signal at 2.4 GHz coming from the Floodlight/Camera unit. The jury is still out.
Jonathanstrong, thanks for your input. Glad you discovered the culprit and found a remedy. You might read my previous posts and see where I’m at with the issue. I have no problem reaching the door opener with my car remotes from 40 to 50 feet coming up the street before I reach my driveway, as long as the power is off to the WYZE Floodlight/Camera. With power on, I have to stand directly under the door opener receiver to get it to actuate. There are no other LED lights on in my house or garage. I hope I hear from tech support soon.
I also read about the led light bulbs and eliminated that theory as well by either removing or replacing all surrounding bulbs with incandescent. As you, it all works fine as long as the main power to the flood light is completely off. We considered using a programmable light switch to turn off the “issue” during the day but I do like having the camera functioning 24/7. For the moment I have been using my vehicle Alexa to have her open my door (I have an Alexa enabled garage door opener that is hard wired to the opener) or I wait till the nose of my truck is almost touching the garage door before the remote works. It used to work close to 100 feet away previous to the Floodlight install. Crossing my fingers that you receive a response from tech support. Sadly I may have discovered this right away during beta testing but we received a bad unit during testing and had to wait months for a replacement. By then testing was over and the units were back ordered.