Unbricking Wyze Contact Sensor - pcb reset pin

Don’t hold your breath waiting for Wyze to do the right or sensible thing. They’ve proven time and time again that is not in their tool box.

I drilled small holes in every one of my sensors so I can measure battery voltage with my probes without having to open up the sensor to test batteries.

What’s really interesting is that if Wyze is able to send a low battery warning then they have the capability for each sensor to display a voltage reading but they never thought to add this simple feature.

If there is one thing I have learned defines Wyze it is a fatal lack of imagination, which is just tragic for a tech company.

They should have a battery life indicator beside each device that’s displayed in the application if you have contact sensor show that and show the battery life icon at the same place

You shouldn’t have to hunt for it it should be readily apparent

Follow up for you please.
Did the release of the Mac Hassio monitoring app provide the drivers that were needed to support wyzesense?

I have a spare 2010 iMac with 12GB ram,
what would the best way to run HA on this system?

Did you maintain button battery contact while soldering the AA batteries? I did something similar when I used a SmartThings zigbee sensor on my overhead garage door. I dumped SmartThings when Samsung started getting squirrely with their future plans.

I did not. The contact sensors are fine without a battery in them, they lose their programming at a certain battery voltage, not by being disconnected from power, at least from what I’ve observed. I’ve left my sensors without batteries installed for a week or so, and they did not lose their programming. The only sensor I’ve had lose it’s programming was installed in an outdoor shed that was inaccessible (buried in snow) when the battery started dying, and by spring when I could get into the shed again it had died and erased itself. It was without sufficient battery power for about 3 months. Now that I have these LiFePO4 batteries in, they should last much longer.

1 Like

Thanks for the reply. The V1 sensors have a lot of life left in them as long as one keeps the battery changed. I do not want to be forced to go to Hubitat until I’m ready. Perhaps in the spring. I would prefer local reporting. As a bonus I get to avoid AWS.

1 Like

[Mod Edit]
I tried running it on 3 different machines
with py installed as command line and without it
it keeps giving me errors


how [Mod Edit] am I supposed to run this ?
could someone please build the FW for my motion sensor please,
I just give up now, py windows enviornement just SUCKS
every time I try and use it I have nothing but problems

MOD NOTE: Post edited to conform to the Community Guidelines.

you need to run it as a python script. try this:

cd \Users\aross\OneDrive\Desktop\wyzeback-main\

python wyzeback_motion.py 779EDE94

3 Likes

thanks, that worked!
I had to run it from regular cmd prompt not the python prompt

1 Like

does anyone have a pic of the motion sensor with the pads labeled?
I see a pad labeled “R” and one labeled “T” on the motion sensor
so can I just assume the obvious and that T = TX and R = RX?
weird how the pad labels on the door sensors are so different , no so much in the pic in your post from reddit but in the one in the wyzesense git page , there is no T and R labeled pins in that pic
the pic you posted from reddit though appears to have a pad labeled T but I can’t see if the other one is also labeled R , I have not opened my door sensors as they are still working I just opened the motion sensor so far

the other question I have about this photo is about the GND pad
I mean do I really have to use the GND pad or can I just use the GND terminal for battery instead , I mean GND should be GND right?
I also noticed in the reddit pic that he has soldered on 3 extra leads , for what I do not know, he must be a real masochist :rofl:

I mean I would like to just use the battery terminal for + and -
then I only have to deal with trying to get a connection to T and R pads
hopefully I can rig up some kind of jig with 2 pins for that ,I really don’t want to have to remove the board from the housing ,it looks like the plastic is not very forgiving and tabs will break off if I do that
and soldering to those 2 pads while in the housing looks impossible
wish I had some of that solder glue

I am going to try with a motion sensor
I used the wyzeback script and my device MAC address and I have the patched .bin file
but I just read on the wyzeback git that there is some hash that gets cheked and that this will not work to pair a new sensor ,it can only fix existing sensors
my sensor was already paired to my bridge in the app but I deled it when I was doing trouble shooting, it was paired to this bridge before though but I deleted it in the app
is this going to work for me or did I mess up by deleting it from the app?
has anyone removed their device form the app and been able to re-pair it with the bridge after reflashing the patched FW?
I am not sure if that issue applies only to sensors that were never paired at all or if matters if the sensor was paired before but later deleted
also I wonder if the bridge FW makes a difference
it says my bridge FW is up to date but it is on 3.0.0
I was reading before that there is a newer FW for the bridge 3.0.3 I think
so wyze must have pulled it because my is lower and says it is up to date
I read the newer 3.0.3 FW was causing issues and not to update from 3.0.0 , so maybe the people not able to add the sensor back had the newer bridge FW? maybe it will still pair to the bridge after flashing the patched FW if the bridge FW is lower than 3.0.3?
does anyone know about this, or have any experience flashing back a motion sensor and repairing it with success?

Do anybody know where I can buy a new or used V1 motion sensor?
Mine stopped and is not even blinking the light.

Try eBay. Here’s one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/234331920857

I have one motion sensor I use outside to trigger front door camera recording. I died when battery got too low. Luckily I had a backup from the starter kit that still worked. I followed what @raym64 did and made a little enclosure with two double AA batteries and soldered straight to the CR tabs. I have a lid to protect against rain and also shield the field of view of the sensor so it only picks up lower motion. Thought I’d share a few pics if anyone is interested.

Not allowed to upload photos as a new user so here is a Gdrive link: Wyze Motion Sensor Enclosure - Google Drive

3 Likes

That’s fantastic…Nice job!
I don’t know where you live, but not only does the battery last so much longer, it also isn’t affected by severe colt like the lithium button battery is. My contact sensor in the mailbox that triggers basically twice per day is now a once per year battery change and it still has power left.

1 Like

Very nicely done

Hello All and @arossetti1976
Sometime back when I was investigating methods of restricting the range and reducing the sensitivity of the early motion sensor, I took some pictures of it dismantled. Here they are, hope they are useful?

Till later, Victor

3 Likes

“I used the wyzeback script and my device MAC address and I have the patched .bin file
but I just read on the wyzeback git that there is some hash that gets cheked and that this will not work to pair a new sensor ,it can only fix existing sensors”

Yes, that is correct. I have successfully flashed two motion sensors, and in both cases, they worked fine with Home Assistant and correctly reported their original MAC addresses but would not pair using the Wyze app.

I believe there’s a 16 byte device-specific number stored in flash near the MAC address. When a device dies due to a dead battery, both numbers are wiped out. During pairing, both of those numbers need to be correct since they are sent to and verified by the Wyze servers. The MAC address is printed on the sticker on the back of the device and is easily recovered, but the other 16 byte number can only be read from flash using a special interface (as far as I know).

1 Like

well after 2 orders and both orders had bricked contacts on arrival, its a joke we cant get them replaced as im in the UK, not USA

If someone could fix my 3 for small fee ( problem cost me loads in shipping ) would be great :slight_smile:

any programs for macs?