Maybe I’ll disconnect the white wire for now. I don’t know if that is a good idea. Outside temps aren’t bad and would not call for heat strips. Again this morning my thermostat needed to be satisfied 1 degree between sleep and home mode, and the heat pump along with the strips were on. There’s no way the strips were needed and it is costing me a lot of money!
@mouse74 So if I switch my unit so the heat strips are connected to * and tell the unit its emergency heat the unit will still use them for defrost since it’s controlled by the heat pump itself? I’m in KY so temps don’t get too cold here. 20’s sometimes, 10’s very rarely. I think I could get away with the heat pump and emergency. Plus I have split units and this unit heats the upstairs bedrooms and bathrooms only, the main floor and basement are heated by a gas furnace. Emergency heat is starting to make more sense for my configuration,
Just wish the slider would basically set it this way if we set it to max savings and have this control in software.
Yes I think that will work for you hayj. I may give it a try too. Then I can get rid of my toggle switch and make it look nicer. My heat pump balance point is about 14 degrees.
On my old honeywell I had white connected to AUX and a blue on E, which I believe is emergency heat. I think now I have blue on * and configured the thermostat to say * is emergency heat.
I will double check but if white is on a W terminal on Wyze, I think I can disconnect that for now to prevent the heat strips from coming on when the stat demands it. Does that sound right?
Scott I agree with your summation that will work for you. Where I’m at is I don’t have emergency heat at all I have is auxiliary on w1. I didn’t want emergency heat coming on every 30 minutes so I broke the w1 wire are coming out of the thermostat and now I have no auxiliary. I can always put it back if we get a cold spell. For now in Tennessee I don’t foresee needing it anytime soon and hopefully they will get the software updated in the thermostat. Removing the white wire or W1 will not stop the auxiliary from coming on on during a defrost cycle.
I disconnected the white wire from W1 and that stops the heat strips from coming on.
Is there an official bug request or report, some support ticket already open that I can also tag onto? I have used at least 50% more electricity since I switched and this is obviously unacceptable for numerous reasons.
Sorry if I missed anyone stating this, but did you move your Behavior slider to “Savings”. This should help with the heat strips kicking on when there is a high temp differential.
Here in the Carolinas, our Mechanical Code requires us to install outdoor thermostats to lock out heat strips unless it’s 40 degrees or below. This overrides any thermostat trying to energize the heat strips. While it’s not ideal, it is an option. Heat Pumps can effectively heat a home down to -20 degrees outside here in the South East. The heat strips are for supplemental heat, if or when the heat pump can’t keep up. Or if the homeowner wants to heat their home quickly.
Here is a post with my old wiring and how the thermostat is behaving now.
I did slide the setting as far to Savings as it would go, but it would still kick on the heat strips and it seems to happen more toward the end of the heat cycle. It seems like the thermostat is trying to figure out how long it would take to reach the set point, and says “woah I need to kick in extra heat or it will take a long time!” and then kicks in the strips. In my case, I am only going 1 degree or so, and it always says “heating to 70 in <1 minute” but it always takes a lot longer. The stat seems to think kicking in the strips will heat faster and thus run less and save energy/money, but it is not. Kicking on the heat strips costs a fortune and is not energy efficient. Without W connected my heat pump runs longer and takes longer to reach set point, but is MUCH more efficient. I’m in Missouri and outside temps are 30s-40s so the heat pump has no problems getting the house to 70 degrees without the need for the heat strips. I hope this can be fixed because this situation certainly isn’t going to help with any energy star ratings.
Not sure about an “official” bug report. I submitted a ticket, and got the response back that the ability to adjust the aux heat setpoint/offset is temporarily disabled in the app due to ongoing bug fixes. In addition, I have an ongoing conversation with one of their people on here who requested a log and said that aux should only kick on with a >2 deg differential (we know that’s not the case). I just re-installed mine (I removed it since I didn’t want a $$$$$$ electric bill), so will hopefully have a log showing the issue at some point today.
You can always submit a support ticket, since they haven’t responded to any of the threads on here, they need to realize this is a huge issue for people. As in, I will be requesting a return if it’s not fixed soon. The idea behind a smart thermostat is to save energy, not use more! Being an aerospace controls engineer, this is NOT a hard problem to solve.
Thanks. I will submit a ticket and maybe enough tickets will get someone’s attention about it. Maybe a few social media posts are in order to get someone to respond.
@scott2020 did you start another support ticket? I’m having the same issues. I have not changed the original wiring config.
Thanks for any help!
I have not. I have been tied up with other stuff, and it has been working OK since I removed the W wire so the thermostat can’t kick on the heat strips. My electricity usage is much lower than the start of the month thankfully.
This was a very helpful thread for me. I posted in another “communication issue” thread the following and thought it might help others here. I live in TX so the heat strips for me are true emergency options that need not be on any other time automatically.
For my heat pump setup I think it may have been a wiring related issue adding to the problem. I changed the aux / emergency / electric heating strip from W1 to the * terminal and set it to emergency in the Wyze app. At some point I was able to get to the personalize section after doing that. At the core I still think it’s a wyze network issue as a second thermostat install with no wiring app errors still got the network bad communication error. I just kept trying and it finally got to the next step…
Can you send pics of your wiring diagram on your Wyze? that may help.
I just got a reply from an open ticket with Wyze. Their support guy said, “Send it back”.
Very helpful. Not so much…
Did you send yours back? Support just told me to…
Great, thanks! That is exactly how I have mine as of this afternoon. Do you think the emergency heat is coming on every day? We have our nights programed to drop 5 degrees then come back up in the morning. When that happens, the aux heat comes on. I’d sure like for that to not happen but I think Wyze uses timing not degree differential.
I don’t know if emergency heat will ever kick in unless selected manually. I haven’t done any testing yet other than making sure it blows warm air in heat mode and cold air in cool mode.
I have not returned mine or talked to tech support yet. Just haven’t had time. I did disconnect the white wire from W1 so the thermostat would not be able to kick on the heat strips at all. This saved me at least $100 in electric vs. what was projected at the beginning of the billing cycle. I did re-connect the white wire this weekend because it was single digits and this week will be very cold. I have a separate wire already connected to * that is for emergency heat, blue I think on mine.
I used the emergency heat, and strangely you cannot set a temperature while emergency heat is on! You kick it on and it runs forever apparently until you manually turn it off of emergency. My old stat would allow you to put in emergency mode, but would respect your set point and not run it forever. Hopefully they can do something about this as well.
That’s why I ended up re-connecting W1. I needed a little extra heat during the bitter cold but emergency heat is totally manual!