I’m in the high desert and have TONS of sun. I am curious if I could set up a couple panels on my garage to charge a couple large batteries in my garage and then run cables to the 4 cameras on my garage.
I got several of the outdoor wireless cams and I’m not real impressed. I want to swap them for v3 cams
yea but why not make wireless v3
As noted above the Wasserstein uses a 3.7v battery. I actually have a bunch of 9800mah 3.7v batteries that I use in flashlights. I wonder if a cheaper/smaller version of the OP setup could be built using it.
I guess i don’t fully understand, if ill of my cameras had v3 capabilities id still prefer wireless indoor outdoor wireless wifi to me just seems logical. for looks as well as fewer variables to contend with
The biggest thing the wireless lack is continuous recording. In my case they don’t detect motion where I need to so no events are recorded. But with continuous recording I could still see what happened even if an event wasn’t recorded.
All my outdoor (now) V3’s are on battery finally.
Originally only my 2 driveway cameras were as they were on a 12v solar system, with 100Ah battery.\
Just finished moving the other 14 over to a battery backed up system which I will be adding another 100Ah battery to.
Ran low voltage direct burial landscape lighting wire then used a weatherproof 12 volt to 5 volt micro-USB regulator at each camera tapped into the low voltage wiring circuit.
The reason I am updating the current battery is that it only lasted 12-13 hours before the low-voltage disconnect kicked in at 11.8v, so now I have 4 times that previous battery’s size and should get 2 days of power to the cameras, internet modem, and Wireless access points.
Since I live in “Third-World” California in a PG&E electrical service area having backup power is a necessity
Weatherproof 12v to 5v Micro-USB adapter cable
Very nice! What 100Ah battery are you using?
Mighty Max Battery 100 Ah
The charger/power supply was out of e-wasted Motorola SCADA equipment, this weekend I will test the Ampacity of the battery to see if I get 100Ah
If I was you I’d start looking elsewhere for a one app solution wyze doesn’t care a lot about is eccentric to get our money to bankroll them for products they won’t let us have, only the name brand stores. I thought the same, one app for all the things, and it’s worked until Christmas, January. Now I’m looking elsewhere even tho it costs more it’s dependable. Look what they’ve done with the V2 cameras, discontinued, so we are forced to buy V3 at higher prices, the same prices as the name brand stores as I found out last weekend, but they do have some in stock. If we stop pre buying I bet they’d come around. I’ve stopped prepaying, speaking for myself.
The term “inductive” applies to AC currents. In this system, they are all DC, therefore, the formal terminology is “inductive reactance” and it does NOT apply. An anal engineer might argue that the inductance created by a coiled wire could be beneficial in slowing down a wavefront from a lightning strike and thereby reducing the odds of damage to the controls or camera, BUT, that’s insignificant for many reasons. A coil offers placement and service flexibility, and also creates DC resistance and losses. However, since the currents in this system are relatively small, and the wire is a lower gauge (big) that also puts the concern under the insignificant umbrella. In summary, coiled wires are of no practical concern to the operation and only offer physical flexibility. I have an engineering degree and 40 years of design experience in case you are questioning the validity of my response. To everyone else reading this… just wire it up as the situation dictates but pay attention to the UV resistance of the insulation, put in drip legs or seals at the enclosure entry to help keep water out, be mindful of condensation and consider a fuse at the battery terminal.
This I need to check on in my setup actually.
I ended up putting an inline fuse at the output of the solar panel and also added a kill switch on top of the sealed battery housing allowing for immediate shut off of power into the system.
@bryonhu - Could you share the info for make and model of the transformer to go from 120VAC to 12VDC?
A little more details are needed.
Is this for a Battery Backup system or just directly powering the 12v to 5v micro-USB regulator adapter only?
If a Battery backed up system that powers the cameras see this post: Battery Backed-Up 14 V3 cams and Internet Communications
Not necessarily for battery backup, I read that you were using
and inferred (mistakenly apparently) that you were running 12VDC low voltage landscape lighting plus the battery system.
I’m having trouble finding 12VDC vs 12VAC landscape lighting transformers.
OK you won’t have a battery backup and just need a 120 VAC to 12VDC power supply,
How many cameras are you going to connect?
Number of cameras will determine the amperage needed
I’m wanting to hook up cams AND light, I’ve got at least 100 yards of potential run.
I’m trying to NOT kludge together a bunch of parts if I can find a decent solution from a respected manufacturer.
The thing is that most all outside lighting uses AC power and the cameras setup uses DC.
So it sounds like you want to use the same low voltage lighting wiring for both.
Doubt you will find a manufactured setup to do the AC lights and then also do DC for cameras.
You could put a bridge rectifier on the AC lighting circuit to make DC then use the 12vdc to 5vdc adapter I use but some soldering skills are needed and weatherproofing of bridge diode and connections would be needed to ensure a long life.
Maybe he means yard lights? Those run on 12VDC, too. He jut needs to total all the amps.
Most yard lighting is 12 VAC to minimize voltage drop over distance
I realize that “most” is AC, but I had found some DC a few years ago.
/edit - and when I googled Landscape lighting I found:
There are two primary types of landscape lighting systems: low voltage (12 volt DC) and line voltage (120 volt AC).linky