Solar panel AND battery for Wyze Cam 3

Forgot to mention this about one of your questions,

The Solar panels connect to the Solar Controller/Charger

The Solar Controller/Charger connects to the Battery

Any devices you get the 12 volt power from like the adapter to camera connects to the Solar Controller.

Only the Solar Controller connects to the battery, this is to protect battery when it gets to low and disconnect the loads via the solar controller.

Besides clicking the blue links to see the items, you can click the pictures to enlarge, then once in picture click again for even larger…

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FYI - I have three WCOs 20 V2s 6V3s and 4 pancams They all work exactly as they’re supposed to…
(None are junk) :wink:
I’ve had no problems with any of them…

That’s quite a system you’ve got cobbled together there!! Rube Goldberg would be proud! :sweat_smile::wink:

Consider yourself very lucky. So far my failure rate is over 50%.

Actually I wouldn’t call it lucky… More like an average user experience…
… they’ve sold millions of these products, The failure rate is at less than 1%…

I’ve got literally dozens of various devices, I’ve only had a couple fail…
and those were when I used them outside, and they weren’t supposed to be used outside… :wink:

Not really, since the point of Rube Goldberg devices were to complicate performing a simple task.

That set up doesn’t look very simple to me. :sweat_smile:

Actually very basic electrical knowledge is needed.

If you can change a car battery, change and wire a light switch in your home, run some cable and plug it in to a connector then tighten screws to connect wires.

That is the extent of complexity of this solar setup.

Click to enlarger above image, then click again to enlarge more if needed…

But I am an Electronics Engineer and a IBEW union electrician so this is childs play…:rofl:

I understand some people can’t change a car battery or a fuse so they go to a auto shop, others enjoy doing their own work.

And as @LonnieM said this is nowhere near a Rube Goldberg machine, but if you like I could design you a more complicated Rube Goldberg device to accomplish the same thing.:rofl::rofl::rofl:

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I didn’t say anything about “knowledge”… The knowledge required is the only thing simple about that. :sweat_smile:

I know everything is personal with aesthetics… but I wouldn’t want all that crap tied to a tree in my backyard…

The camera is only on the tree, the solar system is elsewhere and powers several cams and Motion Activated Spotlights.

I have over 4.5 Acres so it really is not taking up much space.

I also showed the option of using buried low voltage wiring with power supply and 12v to 5v micro-USB Adapter to power camera in post above.

If you look back up in this post the camera up 12 feet on the tree is the only visible thing on tree, go ahead and click on image the click again to zoom in and you can barely if at all see the black wire going 12 feet to base of tree.

You do you, I will do me and my setups.:beer:

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He is not telling the truth. The :bear:, the :cat2:, the stinky :skunk: and the deer :deer: built that set up to keep an :eye: on him.

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Mr. Aesthetics @CapeCodTodd do these cams pass your aesthetics test, please grade me sir :grin:

These are powered by my battery backed up system and low voltage wiring was used to location of battery backed up system in 2nd floor of my garage store room
Battery Backed-Up 14 V3 cams and Internet Communications ← Click the link to see info

This one has my counties Air Quality Sensor next to it and is available on

Buried low voltage wiring to location over 120 feet from Battery backup system.

The bear climbed the tree to mount this one, but had a little trouble with screwdriver @Antonius

What @Antonius was referring to link Pepe’ Le Pew & Friends

@Antonius - Shhh. I don’t want the state labor board finding out I pay the laborers in nuts and fruit, etc…

@CapeCodTodd - The Motion Flood Light 12 volt LED recently died and will be replaced, I will try to do a better job at aesthetics of wiring when replaced. Then I will have you grade it professor aesthetica :grin:

Also have been trying to find a big enough Fake Fiberglass Boulder to cover Ice Chest Solar power enclosure, the ones for satellite dishes are just a few inches to small…

The Motion Flood light makes a V3 behave like a Wyze Cam Outdoor if you turn off IR and night vision, then you get no flying bug, pollen and debris triggers. The bear video below I did have IR off but not the night vision which I thought about doing later and will once motion flood light is fixed then color night vision would work.

Rube Goldberg machines are complex simply to be complex. Not everything that is complex is a Rube Goldberg machine. Computers aren’t Rube Goldberg machines. Car engines aren’t Rube Goldberg machines.

The only difference between setup above and a typical solar power setup is that it uses a 12 volt-to-5-volt regulator instead of an AC inverter. Frankly, this setup is rather simple compared to the wiring in a typical home.

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Wow somebody’s got way too much time on their hands on a Friday night. :nerd_face::sweat_smile:

Pot, meet kettle.

I’m old. What’s your excuse? :grinning:

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8 month paid vacation, every day is a vacation! :rofl:

And I’m a member of the old fart club like you all, next upcoming contract will keep me busy for several years and my presence here will drop drastically…

Then after that contract I may say fork-it and really retire, LOL but doubt it because I enjoy my work and the easy money…

Where did you all go? it’s only 11PM on the West Coast…LOL

I’ve experimented with the V3 on solar. I started with a 6V 7Ah gel cell just using a diode to drop the voltage close to 5V for the camera and the battery was charged by a 6W solar panel. It made a fairly compact package that I mounted on a pole, however, the solar panel and battery were not enough to keep up with the camera power requirements. Since I built 4 of these units, to salvage the investment, I used two panel-battery units per camera and those have held up fine unless we have more than 2-3 cloudy days in a row. Where I live this is not common. The next version planned will use a larger box with a 12V Ah battery and a 20W solar panel that came with a charge controller that has a USB 5V output. In the mean time, I have installed several of the outdoor cameras and their internal battery has lasted several months between charges. I will say that the V3 video and over-all performance, especially clarity and night vision, is superior, but of course that comes at the cost of more power consumption.

If you have the space and not a super long distance between cameras, I like the idea of one larger battery and larger solar panel.

Fixed my Motion Controlled Non-Wyze floodlight, a deer must have bumped sensor aiming upward.

Below are 2 videos of me testing after fixing issue, One with outside lights on and the other in total darkness only relying on the non-wyze motion floodlight.

V3 is now in Color Night Vision Mode.

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I ran two WCO for about 3 months without any external power and they ran fine. I re-charged them twice.
During our dry winter, I hooked them up to small outdoor 5V solar panels. WCO #1 on a 7watt panel, in full sun, WCO#2 on a 20watt panel in full shade of redwood trees. They both charge to 100% every day. When the Wyze solar panel kit arrived, I replaced the USB cords with the sealed cords to waterproof both cameras. Done.

The WCO are anything but junk. They are extraordinary low-power cameras much better than Blinks or any other competing camera.
Hooking up a solar panel to a car battery to a V3 is a different animal, but of course it can be done,
The WCO will still outperform that in some important regards, such as distance from WiFi and battery life.
Regarding condensation, I solved that problem by buying cheap birdhouses which traps some heat and keeps the cameras from radiating their heat away. It also disguises the cameras, since they just look like bird houses, and the solar panel on the roof just looks like a dad joke.

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