To follow up on my post just above:
Luke, I did find the video on YouTube showing how the camera comes apart. The back panel where the connectors are snaps apart from the main housing, but not easily. I was interested to note that in one of my V1 cameras I had two IR LEDs, and in another one I had four. Two different versions of the hardware I guess.
My goal in getting at the IR LEDs was to disconnect them so I could run the camera behind a glass window in night view mode (black and white with enhanced sensitivity), while mounting a high powered IR floodlight mounted outside to light up the driveway at night. I purchased an 850nm IR floodlight from Amazon (the one with 198 LEDs in a rectangular frame which takes 12 volts DC). Once I had the camera IR LEDs disconnected (by carefully cutting the circuit board path on one end of the LED), I mounted it behind the window and temporarily rigged the IR floodlight outside.
I was very disappointed in the results because it seemed like the light wasn’t powerful enough. While it seemed to work fine in testing inside the house, once I had it set up outside it seemed like it was barely on. Then it hit me-- the double pane “low e” glass in my vinyl replacement windows was blocking a lot of the IR light getting back inside to the camera. So I temporarily moved the camera to be looking out a completely open window, and voila, I had a great night time image. Far better than you could get with just the IR LEDs mounted in the front of the camera.
So the bottom line is with these cameras-- if you’re planning on installing a high intensity IR light source outside, make sure the camera is also outside with it, if you have typical double pane windows. For now, I’m looking at various outdoor mounts and a location for the camera which I had hoped to avoid by disabling the camera’s IR LEDs and mounting it inside.