Is there any better way to power these cameras?

I currently have two PanCams and a single V2 camera. I want to buy a few v3 for the front and back yard, and some more V2 for the inside of my house.

Heres the magic question. Has anyone figured out how to run long distance hardwired power for these? Using USB and a USB brick isnt always the most attractive nor is a outlet available so high up on the wall. Mine are high up to keep my kids from moving them.

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There is talk of a POE adapter being released for the V3 ( not sure about v2 compatibility ).

This is the best method you could have for your use case (I have a similar need in my Shop).

No timeline yet, but it will be a great option if/when available.

Wyzecam users have been successfully using products like this with regular Cat5 cable runs and PoE power injectors (or switches) for years. I intend to move in this direction. The nice part is these will allow easy transitioning from USB cameras to PoE powered ones from any number of manufacturers. The higher voltage allows much longer cabling and the power is adjusted down at the camera end.

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The distance from the wall wart to the camera can be up to a the max length of a USB cord. I’ve run V2’s with a 26 foot USB cord. ( and posted my results on the forum last spring or early summer but the search feature is so poor I can’t find the posts).
Remember - all USB micro cords are NOT created equal. I have even run 2 V2’s with 1 at the end of a 26’ extension and the second pair pulling thru the first with a SHORT USB cord. Couldn’t run 3 at a time off even a “high power” wall wart at 26’.

/edit - found it -

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You could also try running a hidden eletrical extentsion. I have also seen some users power them with a USB wire coming from anothwr camera.

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Hello People and @RebelYell.

Here is a link to:
Installing WYZE Cam outside - one approach Post No. 458.
I have used this method for many of my outside V2’s.

The picture below shows how I powered a neighbor’s outside her garage V2:


This may work for your high-up location?

The burial of various types of cables seems good also.

Victor Maletic.

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I have 2 Cam Pans that use a 26Ft. micro USB cable from Amazon with no Problems

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I’ve used USB to DC dongles I got off eBay for about two bucks. Then connect the DC dongle to a spool of DC wire running them in the crawl space so you can’t see any of the wiring. On the other side, the DC wire connects to a power power brick is an old 5v 2AH and about 40 feet from the camera (v1, outdoors under soffit?) and haven’t had any issues for the past year, in rainy Seattle. Hope that helps!

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But USB is already 5 V DC. All you’ve done is up the amperage a bit, and maybe used better wire…

I’ve been considering how to accomplish this for mounting cameras at an outside electrical box, 120v AC. I’ve not been able to locate an in line converter with a USB Female connection that can be hidden inside the box itself. Then it dawned on me that simple prong connections or a soldered pigtail wire directly to the male plug would work. So long as the electrical box has power, the camera would stay on line continuously. Has anyone actually done this?

I’m not sure what you’re talking about. But there are plenty of duplex outlets with built in USB power slots; may not be up to code for an outdoor box.

Alternatively there are outdoor outlet box covers with plenty of room for a DC adapter and a dongle or two along with some cable slack. I just installed one.

This is a timely subject for me and I appreciate those who have shared their solutions.

My house was built in the 1930’s and has no cavities in the walls. Of course no outlets outside either. There is just no easy way to run 120V AC anywhere.

I was so excited with the prospect of the outdoor camera I immediately pre ordered 2 without doing my research. For my needs outdoors the PIR sensor is great but I need much more detection range than they have at barely 20’.

Then all of a sudden the v3 appears - oh boy! Maybe this is what I’ve been looking for all this time. But now faced with how to get power outside without it being a redneck mess.

Each camera has come so close to being what I actually want. My v3 is supposed to be here today (after being in the USPS system for 10 days…). I am going to do some testing with just an extension cord laying outside for a few days as a test to see if the v3 will do what I need.

Am bookmarking this thread in hopes for more ideas. Thanks all!

Well you don’t need it to be 120V. For shorter runs it’s 5V, and for longer runs you can step down 12V or PoE…

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I had the same problem 30s no outside power. Here is what I did I have a Front & Back porch Light. I turned the power to those lights off & cut a small whole below one & beside the the other then I took off the lights. I got 2 modern access boxes from Home Depot that have twist locks on them & cut the holes for the boxes to fit in. Then I ran a wire from the light box on the wall to the new ones then I took 2 outlets also from home depot & connected the wires to them. After that I connected them to the light wires with wire nuts & put the lights back up & put on the outlet covers & turned the power back on. Works great just remember if You turn the light off then You also turn off the camera power. I just never turn mine off as they are LED lights next to no power use. Hope this will help You

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Do you need more than 40 feet?

Amazon.com: MOYEEL 2- Pack 40FT Flat Power Extension Cable Compatible with Wyze Cam/Wyze Cam Pan,Yi Camera,NestCam Indoor,Blink XT Camera,Netvue Cam,USB to Micro USB Charging Cord for Home Security Camera: Industrial & Scientific

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40 feet is really really pushing it for 5 volts. Surprised at the good reviews…

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I use 26 foot flat cables for my Arlo’s and they work fine but you can also get them in 30 feet as well

Hello, I have a bunch of cameras 6 of which are very long runs. 3 of my cameras in the house are using old alarm system wiring (almost 30 years old). That wiring is just 4 conductor telephone wire. Basically I just cut a usb cable in half an confirmed which ones were positive and negative, spliced then on both ends of the old alarm wire and it has been working for at least 18 months. I estimate that my longest run is about 80 feet. My point is that it is only 5 volts and you only need 2 wires. I hope that helps.

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Except that old Bell wire is MUCH thicker than most USB extension cabling. Not even close.

Hello, you are absolutely correct, but not sure your point. I just spliced the each half of the USB cable to each end of the alarm wire. Printed a wall cover and mount and put my camera up… also have two Alexas mounted to the ceiling using the same method.
Actually in one case, I have two cameras, one piggy back off the other that are working well.