I’m not sure where you live, but I think you may be losing some efficiency with your setup. On a decent 120 watt panel you should be pushing an average of 6 Amps to the controller and 5-6 to the battery. With a 4- 5 peak solar hours a day, that should be enough to charge that battery at close to the optimal rate. Once again, if you live where it’s cloudy often, you have to go big I suppose. A few things I’d consider which you may be doing but I can’t tell from your details. Of course, if it’s working for you just ignore this Only trying to help…
Go with Mono PV Panels as they are more efficient in low light conditions
Mount your panels so you can tilt them at least three times per year. Google solar panel orientation via zip code. It’s pretty easy to make adjustment holes in angle iron mounts (or some other clever contraption). The hard part is remembering to change it. I put the adjust times in my online calendar as a reminder.
USE an MPPT charge controller to squeeze out every last drop of energy produced. Wasting available power makes us sad…
Watch your voltage drop/wire sizing. DCV drops very quickly across distances. Place all of your components as close together as possible and use the proper wire size. This is probably the biggest mistake I see people make. Oh, it’s only 10 feet from my panels to my charge controller and I have this 16 AWG wire in my garage from a home improvement project last summer… Not good, that size wire will produce twice the recommended amount of voltage drop.
Bonus tip… NEVER run your battery down to low voltage disconnect unless it’s a zombie apocalypse. Your battery will die a little bit inside each time. Size everything so it never dips below 50% or 30% in an extreme lapse of judgement (like a week long bender in Vegas).
Put all these together and it will cost a bit more initially, but you should be good for 3-5 years until battery replacement and everything else should be good for 10-20… except maybe the camera but at $25 who cares, get another one