Entry Sensor V2 Dissection Pics

Yes…I may do it this way. I will want to buy separate magnets though…you are correct that I have a bunch of V1 sensors currently shelved, but I do want to use them eventually. Honestly I want to connect them directly to Home Assistant and use them locally as makeshift light switches that will actually run fast and work without internet. Just so many other projects to get to, but I don’t want to separate them from their magnets since I have 3D printed brackets that fit them perfectly to work as great light switches…hence, I’ll consider separate magnets. I originally hoped magnetic tape would work for this, but it was too weak, so now I’ll look at stronger magnets, and maybe try mixing it with victor’s idea for sitting a magnet on a steel strip and see if that lets me use just one or 2 magnets.

Kind of disappointed to see the Texas Instruments CC1310 in there considering that’s the chip in the V1 sensors which commonly caused permanent failure when the batteries died. I sure hope something was done to address that problem in this new design. I lost a bunch of V1 contact and motion sensors due to that design flaw.

Seriously? So they all they did was use a much bigger battery. Wow, I hope someone enterprising does some low voltage testing to see if the V2s can also get wiped out.

I’m one of the folks who decided to purchase the CC1310 development board, figured out how to use it, and attempted to reprogram some of my dead sensors. The reality was that the sensors were not actually dead, but that the region(s) of the flash memory which contained one or more copies of their MAC address became corrupted at some point due to the low battery voltage.

What I determined was that even with a restored MAC address(es), the sensors still would not pair through the Wyze app. After reprogramming, they would work perfectly well with Home Assistant, which requires a Linux device and v1 sense bridge (the type normally connected via USB to v1 and v2 Wyze cameras). Home Assistant would correctly report each sensor’s MAC address and device status again. But the same reprogrammed sensors would not pair with the Wyze app. After looking at the flash memory dumps of a few of my sensors which had not yet died, I think I figured out why. It looks like there is a 16 byte number stored in the same region of flash as the MAC. That 16 byte number is random and unique to each sensor. I believe that number is somehow used in conjunction with the MAC during the pairing process for authentication when the Wyze app is used (which entails communication with the Wyze cloud servers which probably contain matching pairs of each device’s MAC + 16-byte unique number). Without both the MAC and its matching unique 16-byte number, pairing with the Wyze app fails. And unfortunately, when a sensor dies due to low voltage, both the MAC and that 16-byte value are lost since they are stored in the same region of corrupted flash. The MAC is marked on the sticker on the back of the device, so it can easily be recovered. But the matching 16-byte value is not stored anywhere else and is lost forever when the sensor dies.

So the only way to fully recover a sensor after it dies is to reprogram that sensor’s original (pre-death) flash image in its entirety. Which means that a user who wants to ensure that they can restore their sensors if they die must go through the effort of reading every one of their sensors’ flash images individually before they die and safely store those images somewhere. Probably not something any user is going to want to do.

I sure hope that either someone at Wyze changed the hardware or firmware design somehow or there has been some change to the CC1310 to prevent the low voltage flash memory corruption. I really don’t want to start losing my sensors one by one again. I don’t use Home Assistant and I never backed up any of my sensor firmwares prior to their death. So I have quite a few useless v1 sensors now. I don’t want to start adding v2 sensors to the v1 sensor cemetery.

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Hello People and @carverofchoice

Maybe this idea may work as shown in the picture below.

The closer to the door hinge the sensor is the larger the amount of hook-latch movement can be accommodated. Probably without any extra magnets or steel bars?

Victor.

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I thought about this, but I was afraid that if it is too close to the hinge I might have less accuracy on when the door is cracked open enough to let people or pets inside but not open all the way and so maybe it wouldn’t alert me that it was open. That was why I was mostly keeping it toward the right side, so if it opened enough for a pet or toddler to sneak in, it would tell me.

Very good, till later.

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Hello Mr. @carverofchoice
I guess, Till later has arrived?
The pictures below depict another approach to sensing your door.


I appreciate your support, Victor.

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thanks for showing the pictures of the internals of the sensor. I want to remotely trigger the contact sensor for a project by using a remotely controlled contact relay from a non-Wyze system. I’ve done it with the old reed switches, but it doesn’t appear that this will work for what I planned. Any ideas?