Dashcam Research Survey

agree 100% on the speed/force metrics being turned off/hidden from sharing.

1 Like

Excellent point – the term is supercapacitor, but the problem is that they don’t have much storage, so this would have relatively limited use. It would probably just help with faster startup. Once unplugged, the dashcam probably couldn’t run for more than a few minutes on a supercap. But that’s perfectly OK,

Frankly, I would prefer the connection to be BlueTooth rather than WiFi. WiFi transfers mean you have to connect your phone to the dashcam’s SSID (network) in order to transfer, making the phone temporarily unable to access the internet. BT is a more appropriate transfer venue.

1 Like

I hadn’t considered Bluetooth because I usually associate Bluetooth with slow data speeds, but I guess Bluetooth 4 gets up to 25Mbps and 5 gets up to 48Mbps. A lot of people’s Cable broadband is running at those speeds (I was until I got fiber last year and the speeds weren’t that bad actually…my ISP was just terrible with lots of outages, etc, but the speeds were usually okay), and a lot of people’s mobile carriers have average mobile data speeds in that range too…so I guess it’s not that bad for infrequent emergency use, and if we need to download A LOT then we can just put the card in a computer or something…which might be more necessary if it is 2K or 4K video instead.

Wi-Fi Direct claims transfer speeds over 250Mbps for most devices that support it (maybe faster for some)…that might be needed if Wyze is using higher resolution cams and if a person wants to watch live continually on their phone…

But I think you’ve convinced me that in general I would prefer the Bluetooth option so that I don’t lose internet while I’m connected to the camera. Good input, thanks for sharing. :slight_smile:

I agree about the Wi-FI being a PITA. On my current cam you have to push a button on the camera to turn on the Wi-FI then connect phone to the cam SSID , You need to be within 10-15 feet to stay connected to the cam. I have viewed some videos on my phone using the Wi-Fi but I haven’t tried to download any yet, I am recording in 3 min segments and the manual states it may take a few min to download the video?? This cam has a 250mAh LI battery. It states it will last 2-5 minutes once power is removed and depends on the recording resolution , like at 2160P battery will last 2-3 min, at 1440 P 3-5 min. If I want to view more than one video I just take the card out and view it on a PC, easier than screwing around with the phone and Wi-Fi. :smiley:

OMG you too?? Here is my 2005 Laptop GPS cross-country rig … so clearly beneficial in saving miles despite my family’s unfounded panic and catastrophic predictions of doom from driving our minivan and Camry down logging roads and cliff-edge shortcuts. ONLY WE had this cutting-edge technology!
image

2 Likes

A regular lithium ion battery probably won’t work in hotter climates where the daytime temperature can be 110+. Dashcam needs to work in all climates. The main reason I have hesitated on getting one is I don’t want lithium battery heating up in my car when it hits 115 degrees in AZ.

Needs the ability to record 24/7 as long as it has power, and or for a motion detection mode for vandalism/theft situations that might not trigger a vibration. Otherwise not interested.

All dash cams I have had will record 24/7 if they are powered, it’s your vehicles battery. You need to get your power source always turned on it not already installed. I do not have the power source hardwired in any of my vehicles for constant power, no need for me. I have not seen a dash cam that will detect motion while in the parking mode but there might be one, most use vibration as far as I know. I haven’t seen any that will send notifications to your phone of movement or vibration either but they may exist for more $$$$.

Yes, I think this is because there isn’t a really good solution for this. Most motion detection cams rely on either:

  1. Recording 24/7 and then only reporting when there is a change in pixels between 2 frames of the video - this option requires a lot of power, and would require a very large battery power source, and if using your car battery, it could drain your car battery too quickly, causing more people to be upset about the device, than like it.
  2. Use PIR sensors to detect heat changes, but these don’t work well through glass/windows, so it is very ineffective. It would not accurately trigger when there is nearby motion. Additionally, cars often get hot inside and so it is possible to have false detections caused from this depending on how the PIR sensor works.
  3. Use a “gravity sensor” or vibration sensor to turn the cam on. If it senses a window break, or car door open/close or someone hit you in the parking lot, then it turns on and records from the moment of the vibration. Many dashcams have these vibration sensors anyway so that they can automatically lock and save any videos when it detects an accident (sudden jolt). They are often set to be more sensitive when in “parking” mode so that they will turn on if something makes them move at all.

So yes, you’re right that motion detection (by PIR or by pixel comparison) is rare because it doesn’t work well inside the car, and so most use vibration detection when parked for those reasons. Makes sense, but it sure would be nice to have a 24/7 recording or have a good way to start the recording a few seconds BEFORE someone bumps into you in the parking lot or something.

Before any accident, an option should be given to record the speed from the GPS or not. If the speed is recorded and there is a lawsuit, then the speed MUST be turned over to the other side if the video is requested. If the speed was never recorded, then there is no speed data to turn over.

As noted, if an accident is serious enough, the speed will be determined by measuring the distance between objects in the video. For minor accidents, why make it easier for the insurance adjuster to rule against you?

1 Like

And for those who choose NOT to own cell phones - I started using cell phones with a mid 1990s Motorola BAG phone and now have NOT owned a cell phone for over 10 YEARS! I have used GoPros for years but they have limited battery life and can get really hot - 128* - when in use… WiFi & Bluetooth are off until I GET HOME.

Cams need to be self sufficient - I like the parking lot disturbance recording but with Wyze need to be internet connected history I don’t think they can make a RELIABLE dash cam…

I would like to see an app to display multiple cameras on an Android tablet to use as a van security system.

display multiple Wyze Cams or multiple dashcams?

1 Like

I would like to use four Wyze cam V3 for a security system for my van. I have a passenger van so I can use the window mounts for the back and side cameras. The front camera would double as a dashcam. Like most new conversion vans I have a full time internet connection available. So I could display the cams on an Android tablet, in the van. I could also view the cams remotely on my phone.

Your need seems off-topic from Dashcam Research Survey, yet I have a DIY suggestion for you: power your multiple cameras off a separate smaller lead acid “auxiliary” battery that you connect a cigarette lighter socket(s) to, via a 5 to 10 amp inline fuse. A small car battery of your choice is fine and 1+ amp USB car chargers should work. To automatically recharge the auxiliary battery from the alternator when you are driving, connect it to your main battery through a thing called a Battery Isolator. Your extra battery will then be recharged while driving the van, With the cameras powered by the auxiliary battery, you should be able to power the cameras for 3-4 (wild guess) days while never depleting your primary starter motor battery. (Important- use an in-line 5 or 10 amp amp fuses to the cigarette lighter battery, and perhaps a 30 amp fuse through the battery isolator. A wire shorting a car battery will turn red hot and easily start a fire! So, if this is all scary, forget you read it!)

1 Like

My comments in the survey about what I want:

(1) Option to turn off GPS so it is not recorded at all and (2) easy way to turn on audio recording, if needed (e.g., after the police try to pull you over). If the GPS speed is recorded, then it MUST be turned over if there is a lawsuit and it is asked for. It is better to have the option not to record it at all.

In some states, it is illegal to record audio without telling anyone in the car first. However, there are times when we need to turn on the audio and be 100% sure that it is on.

A mini-screen on the dashcam is optional. I would rather be able to see the video clips on my smartphone. A big screen makes the dashcam bigger and more likely to be seen and stolen.

Post-survey thoughts: I keep my audio off because California is a two-party consent state. Also, if I get into an accident, I don’t want an lawyer arguing that I was a bad driver because I was listening to loud music right before the accident or because I was recorded swearing at the other driver for being an idiot. However, I want to be able to turn the audio recording on easily if a cop pulls me over or if I see a license plate number and need to say it out loud so that it is recorded.

In those instances, I need to be 100% sure that the audio recording has been turned on. My current dashcam uses a touch sensor to turn on audio recording, which does not give me much confidence. I would rather have an old-fashioned mechanical switch.

1 Like

Two more items to add to the Wish List, based on my current use of a BlackVue DR750S-2CH dashcam:

  1. If there are voice prompts, include the ability in the software to turn them off. I don’t need to let the car repair person, valet, or even thief to know that a camera is recording or that parking mode recording has ended. (Telling me that there is a problem with the SD card is OK.) I’d rather have unobtrusive LEDs turn on to confirm that the dashcam is actually recording video or audio.

  2. Have an almost instantaneous start to the recordings. On my BlackVue, the camera does not start recording until after about 20 seconds. Unfortunately, starting and moving a car from a stationary position is when there is a high risk of an accident. Recording those 20 seconds may be crucial. The alternative is to sit in my car for at least 20 seconds after turning it on. Unfortunately, where I live, it is not always safe to be sitting in an idling car.

LoL. Yes.

Interesting note on your comment: on a cross-country from SC to Denver alone, on some backroad East of the Toledo Bend Res on the Texas/LA border, I found myself blocked by a washed out road.

While working my way to the Pendleton Bridge, Microsoft had me on some sketchy cow trails and 2 tracks while passing by a few active Moonshine Stills (I am pretty certain). The fact that my Yukon had dark tinted windows and bore a resemblance to a Government Issue was not lost on me.

I hate Interstate driving if I am in no rush, but I learned from this that there are times they are the better evil.

If it’s all options it wouldn’t be called a survey. Wyze needs to find what features potential customers value the most. Because all of that would make a camera priced at $399+. That feature list would turn a GoPro into HAL.

“Dave, I can’t let you drive the car. I am programmed to protect you, Dave.” LOL