Bare-wire Ends on Power Cord

Would like to see Wyze offer a power ribbon option that doesn’t have the USB adapter on it for the 5 VDC transformer with the plug. If “bare” wire tips were available for those engineering more comprehensive installations with a centralized 5VDC conditioned power distribution system, then we wouldn’t have to cut off your USB adapter to make a more traditionally elegant low-voltage system. Keep the weather-proof micro USB joint off the pigtail for easy camera replacement. Remove the USB plug at the very end of the long wire and just leave bare wires for direct splicing to control wires.

No one wants the expense or hassle of running 110VAC power to every location they want a camera if they’re designing a “system” for more than 2-3 cameras. For more “systemic” approaches, much smaller wire can be utilized and incorporated into the construction of the home far less expensively and obtrusively than 110 VAC.

Here’s a power distribution system designed for an 18 channel CCTV system. It’s how the engineer (i.e. me) will be powering my 17 camera system. Far safer. Far cheaper. Far easier to install.

Don’t forget to vote for your own #wishlist item!

Why not just use these?

Or these. Easier but s bit pricy for a high number of cameras.

Those might be part of a solution. There are lots of different ways to do it. Having a terminal block would make it a little harder to “weatherproof” the connection instead of a two wires with a solder-ring shrink wrap joint. But someone may have a need for what you’re showing. There are hundreds of ways to do it. I would really like to see the bare wires WITH the weatherproof micro-USB for easy camera replacement. Just get rid of the standard USB plug on the end of the “longer” wire. That gives the user/designer hundreds of options. Much appreciate the examples. It’s great to have others researching. Helps find the best option for each application.

Do you want Wyze to include both the original USB cable and one without the USB-A end on it?

I find these work well.

The USB A end and transformer is not necessary. I think the point of this community is to discuss potential ideas. Clearly I’m able to do what you’re asking, and those who would implement it would be, to. If you’re not interested, don’t vote for it. Not sure this is the right home for sarcastic trolling. Your call.

My intentions are not to troll or put down your idea.
I can’t vote for an idea until I know what it is. I just wanted to be clear on what you are asking from Wyze. So far I’m not sure, since you haven’t answered my question.

That would only apply to a very small number of users.

Thanks for the clarification. You perhaps unintentionally understood the idea. You put the wire cutters on there. It actually would apply to all users…who would want to have a system installed that would serve more than about 2-3 cameras.

The 110VAC/5VDC adapter only exists to convert the power. However, for a distributed system with multiple cameras on a property, that means that one would have to find or build multiple 110VAC receptacle boxes and outlet plugs in places within 6 feet of the camera location. If one wanted to mount, say, 18 cameras under soffits, the placement of receptacle boxes to receive a 110VAC/5VDC “plug” as provided may not be possible as the space between the soffit and the roof hip may not allow enough depth to recess the box. Also, the plug would then “stick out” under the soffit and be exposed. Same problem happens if I want to mount a camera near a ceiling - often not within 6 feet of an existing plug.

There are lots of options for distributed 5/12/24 VDC power and various transformers. Systems less than 24 V do not require receptacle boxes and junction boxes per NEC code. Therefore, one doesn’t have to install a box, and can provide direct low-voltage wire (e.g. 18 ga. bell/speaker wire) which is much cheaper than the 110VAC Romex required to meet code if the cameras are to be powered by 110VAC at the plug. If the runs are short enough, the installer could install a 5VDC system. If not, there are lots of options for 12/24 VDC with a buck converter (i.e. step-down transformer) at the end-of-line available for an affordable price. Not only that, but a single, normal, household 20A circuit could power 440 cameras. So it’s a HUGE cost in wiring that is unnecessary if one tries to power an array of cameras. It is unwieldy and impractical.

Since most people aren’t installers or engineers, they’re going to give a box of cameras to an installer or engineer and then they have to cut the USB-A plug off the end of line and just trash the included 110VAC/5VDC plug transformer IF they want to install an integrated whole-house system. This is more trouble than it’s worth and is easily fixed at little to no cost to Wyze by simply allowing an extension line with the Micro-USB weatherproof connection on one end and a bare-wire pair on the other.

Yes. Someone who knows what they’re doing would just as easily snip the USB-A plug off (which is what I do) with the wire strippers you showed a picture of and then do the splice with a combination solder/shrink fitting to provide weatherproof connection and a hard-wire connection back to a distributed power supply. If I were Wyze, that type of action, as “okay” as it might be if you’re an installer, electrician, or engineer who knows what you’re doing, would void some warranties.

So that leaves a guy like me, who knows what he’s doing, with a choice: I either snip the wire and re-splice into and engineered, distributed power system that makes far more sense and risk voiding a warranty, or I communicate with Wyze that they can have a MUCH bigger sales base if they make it easier for installers, engineers to spec their product for new and expanded whole house systems. So far from applying to a “small number” of people, their price point for the V3 makes it very attractive for a distributed system spec that could sell 12-18 cameras per house instead of 1-3 with the 110 VAC system. So it’s potentially a lot more sales by expanding the market base.

You’re right, I didn’t exactly make that clear. So forgive me. But I was assuming that it would be clear to people who do security installs and/or know about electronic hardware. You proposed solution for the Micro-USB plug with a terminal block end is a good one…for indoor applications. It’s too big to weather-proof for an outdoor application. And I’m aware that there are battery-operated outdoor cameras, but no one wants to be recharging an array for 18 cameras covering a property. It would be a full-time job. So we’re back to low-voltage.

So I do appreciate the input. You DID actually “get it”, as evidenced by your wire strippers. I understand why it may not be the right application for you. But I think it would be nice if Wyze could simply provide the extension cable with the weather-proof Micro-USB plug on on one end and bare 5VDC wire ends on the other for installation. I am sure whomever is manufacturing the wiring would be glad to not include more “cost items” on the wiring, and they 110 plugs are not necessary for a distributed system.

Hope that helps.

I asked; Do you want Wyze to include both the original USB cable and one without the USB-A end on it?

So just to be clear, you want Wyze to eliminate the current USB cable and 110/220v to 5v adapter and only include a microUSB to bare wire cable?

Good question. What I want is to be able to choose. That’s one suggestion on how to do it. The other way to do it is to be able to select the desired wiring as an option when buying. That way they don’t have to do both. Either way. One is less expensive.

I originally said in the first sentence …“Would like to see Wyze offer a power ribbon option…” “Option” implies a choice. So if you’re concerned that you’d vote for a bare ends option and it would take away the 110VAC option, sorry for the confusion. I felt like “option” had a clear meaning. I used the word “option” several times, so I hope that helps alleviate your concerns.

Sure, but…

implies not including the 110v adapter.

You’ll get better buy in if you make it very clear in the first sentance.
You can then go on to describe why you think it would be a good option.

“Option” is the very first sentence in the very original post. Go look at it at the top. It’s an accepted grammatical construct that the thesis is stated first and everything that comes after it is explanatory, as you’ve correctly said. You might find that it will help if you’ll actually read that first sentences before you start sharing pictures and other “options”. And, no. Something not being “necessary” does not imply that it’s not ever useful or not practical. As in, “My car is not necessary,” because right now I don’t need to go anywhere. Sorry you were confused. Hope you’ve got it cleared up. Thanks for the technical writing tips. I’ll remember that when I’m ready to write a paper. Can’t help folks who don’t read the words.

You seem more interested in arguing than making your wish appealing to voters.

I want to try and get this item back on track.

I think it’s a valid idea, and would just like to add more options to it. In my installation, I connected all my cameras to PoE (Power over Ethernet). I have that running through my entire house along side the internet, and have a splitter splicing the. PoE out to a 5V usb. That adapter however comes with a standard 3.5mm power connection and a small converter to usb (attached below). Now that setup already gives me a lot of options on how to connect the camera, but that PoE splitter itself is bulky…

What would be completely amazing in my opinion, is if in the next iteration of the camera you added a PoE capable RJ45, both to add a wired internet connection to the camera as an option instead of wifi, and to power the camera if you plug it in to a PoE source at the same time. That would get rid of the usb cable (would need to leave a port if that’s your choice for power), have a single ethernet cable connected out the back of the camera with no extra connections, going to an ethernet plug wherever you want up to 300ft away, and get the camera hardwired to the internet.

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Great option and addition! I’m actually utilizing a system similar to yours. I don’t have the PoEin my house, so I’m having to add it for an older house. I settled on a 12 VDC distribution system (i.e. similar to what you’ve already got insalled, and then a buck converter similar to yours on at the point of service. This one was similar to the one you showed, but a bit more compact. Same idea. A great one, I think!

The other things I liked about this one were a lower price point (there are others that are cheaper still) and that it has two USB-A plug points. So in places outdoors where I have two cameras looking opposite directions, it powers them both.

What about using the existing Wyze USB cable attached to a USB-A female to terminsls adapter inside the house?
Better than cutting the cable and the terminal wouldn’t need to be weatherproof.

that could work in some cases. My biggest concern with just adding a connector is often times I don’t want to make a hole that big going outside. granted you can just fill it in, and usbc isn’t that much larger than the cable, i would still much rather create a hole perfectly sized for the cable, which is only possible with bare ends. There are a couple of places i cut my usb cables, got them through a wall, and spliced them back together to accomplish that. That is what makes ethernet kind of perfect for this because you can start with just the cable and crimp on rj45 heads after getting it through the wall. this way there is nothing that needs to be spliced.

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